Newly acquired NC30, some issues

[phongus]

Hello everyone

I have just purchased my second NC30 and have found some issues with it. The bike is getting a road worthy certificate (RWC) done, which I believe is the Australian (Victoria) equivalent to a MOT test done in the UK. (Had to state Victoria because other states call it something else). The following items I have found are not part of a RWC test but I have found them and rather fix them seeing their importance...not sure why they are not part of the RWC test to be honest.

First here is a picture of it. Cost me $2500 with registration till January which is a bargain in Australia. It needs a tidy up and some things fixed but still good buy in my opinion.




On to the issues at hand

The fuel tap is stuck on the ON position and I can't turn it to OFF or RES. Is this a common problem? Is it possible to pull the tap apart and have a geezer at the internals without having to replace any of the seals. I wouldn't mind trying to fix this ASAP without having to wait for parts to be shipped to Australia.

Second thing is my clutch cable. It is snagging somewhere when turning the bars full lock to the right and doesn't allow the clutch to disengage when the lever is left untouched. I have tried adjusting at the lever to no avail. Is the threaded end on the clutch cover also adjustable? I have never touched the clutch cable on the race bike so not sure. I will be getting a new cable, but need to wait for it to come in.

I was trying to adjust the chain tension and found that someone has used a screwdriver + hammer on it, as the castellated disc on the rear has some serious indentations on it causing issues with the proper tool. Are these castellated disc/plate chain tension things replaceable on their own? I much prefer to replace the one piece than the whole hub. Parts are expensive here and I'm sure shipping a hub is just as bad. I also found it very hard to move, compared to the race bike, this one seemed like it was glued to the swing arm, so I might think something is stuck or kaput.

Thanks in advance
Phong

[Cammo]

I saw that for sale, good buy! Loving the period Blue Fox sticker.

I've come across stuck fuel taps before, I had to replace them but you might have more luck than me. You can undo it without needing to replace seals.

You can adjust the clutch cable at the clutch end, but it's more likely to be incorrectly routed in my opinion (adjusting it won't change the actual length of the cable).

[arsey30]

The chain adjuster is part of the hub but can be repaired.
Remove the hub and clean the dirt from the swinging arm hub housing and grease the hub.
File the hub castellations so that they are straight again, the spanner will still grip as it only engages one castellation at a time.

[Neosophist]

Bluefox made derestriction boxes for these bikes so it might have a delimiter on it already.

As above, hub can be repaired but the castellations are part of the casting of the hub, worthwhile getting the hub out and cleaning out the swining arm, usually dust and shit gets stuck in there and makes the hub difficult to turn, if you want to get really crazy fill the swinignarm up wtih expanding foam to stop the issue happening again.

Tap is odd.. you can remove it from the tank (you will need to replace the rubber o-ring ideally that seals it to the tank or worry about it leaking afterwards)

the actual tap itself isnt a lot too it, theres a ball bearing in it, perhaps you can free it off by working it a little. if theres been some rust or crap in the tank it might be blocked with something.

[phongus]

Thanks for the information and help everyone. It was indeed a good buy :). Passed road worthy with minimal cost. Headlights bulbs are expensive!

On a negative note. Ran out of fuel and can't flick to reserve so now currently stuck on the side of the road waiting for my fuel haha. At least i know, don't go further than 230km.

EDIT: Made it back and bike runs all good. Now to put it on the stands and give it a good clean and tidy up, fix little bits and pieces and make it look even prettier :D.

BTW could anyone advice on how to get the colour shine back on it? The red seems rather dull now rather than shiny...unless it is meant to be sort of dull. I was thinking of sanding it back a little with some wet and dry and getting a pro to put a few clear coats on it. Keeping original colour scheme seeing it is looks in pretty good nick :).

[Neosophist]

Thanks for the information and help everyone. It was indeed a good buy :). Passed road worthy with minimal cost. Headlights bulbs are expensive!

On a negative note. Ran out of fuel and can't flick to reserve so now currently stuck on the side of the road waiting for my fuel haha. At least i know, don't go further than 230km.

EDIT: Made it back and bike runs all good. Now to put it on the stands and give it a good clean and tidy up, fix little bits and pieces and make it look even prettier :D.

BTW could anyone advice on how to get the colour shine back on it? The red seems rather dull now rather than shiny...unless it is meant to be sort of dull. I was thinking of sanding it back a little with some wet and dry and getting a pro to put a few clear coats on it. Keeping original colour scheme seeing it is looks in pretty good nick :).

Shouldnt be dull, if the paint has gone little off get a proper painter to assess it, probably buff and some new laquer will do wonders, esp if you want to keep the origianl coat

wow 230km is good! I get bout 150 - 175km on mine

[phongus]

Thanks for the information and help everyone. It was indeed a good buy :). Passed road worthy with minimal cost. Headlights bulbs are expensive!

On a negative note. Ran out of fuel and can't flick to reserve so now currently stuck on the side of the road waiting for my fuel haha. At least i know, don't go further than 230km.

EDIT: Made it back and bike runs all good. Now to put it on the stands and give it a good clean and tidy up, fix little bits and pieces and make it look even prettier :D.

BTW could anyone advice on how to get the colour shine back on it? The red seems rather dull now rather than shiny...unless it is meant to be sort of dull. I was thinking of sanding it back a little with some wet and dry and getting a pro to put a few clear coats on it. Keeping original colour scheme seeing it is looks in pretty good nick :).

Shouldnt be dull, if the paint has gone little off get a proper painter to assess it, probably buff and some new laquer will do wonders, esp if you want to keep the origianl coat

wow 230km is good! I get bout 150 - 175km on mine

To be honest, I am not sure if that was correct though. I did baby it, so could be probable...mind you most of my trip was on the highway (80-100km/hr). I will have to test it out again once I get the fuel tap checked.

How big is the tank anyway? My friend gave me roughly 5-6L and I topped up another 4L or so. Would that mean around 10L normal and 2 or 3L reserve?

Regarding the paint, I may have to take it to a pro to keep the fairings in good nick. Although there are some scratches/cracks in some areas so not sure if I should get it resprayed the same or just leave it.

[magg]

I get 230-240km before reserve on my touring ride but I imagine a hard flogg would reduce the range considerably.

Factory figures are main tank 15 litres and reserve 2 litres, so best to keep an eye on distance travelled here in oz, as distance between fuel pumps can be long.

[phongus]

...in need of opinion and advice regarding mufflers.

The VFR has a stock exhaust system. The muffler is missing the heat shield things, not sure how but it seems it was taken off rather than ripped off from an accident. This is how it looks like at the moment.



I have a CBR929RR wreck with an oval carbon fibre muffler. It is supposed to be a Yoshimura brand, however the sticker on it says tri-oval and it clearly isn't, so iffy on its brand. This is how it looks.



Both mufflers are roughly 520mm from end to end. With rough measurements, the stock has a smaller outlet (20mm? ran inside and forgot what it was...cbf running back out) while the 929 has an outlet of 50mm, roughly similar to the race bike muffler. The inlet for the stock is about 60mm while the 929 is 70mm.

I am hoping to fit the carbon muffler onto the VFR. Of course I'll need to modify the end to fit the stock system, which will require me to drill out the end cap at the exhaust end and fabricating a custom end cap to suit...most likely make it a slip on so I don't have to weld in a flange or similar to stock exhaust.

Now for your help/opinion/advice...would this carbon muffler be detrimental to the performance of the bike? I am not really knowledgeable when it comes to mufflers so I am not sure if this carbon exhaust is too big for the VFR. What is a good size muffler dimension for street use? I don't mind even trying fabricating my own mufflers...since I do like to make things out from scratch the stone age way.

Thanks in advance
Phong

[Morespeedvicar]

Hi, you'll prob have to turn the sleeve round aswell if you want the stickers on the outside. I dont suppose it'll make any differance performance wise, tho you may have to go up a jets size, but i've seen plenty that are ok with standard jetting too.
Cheers
Ian