Won't start
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Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
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Re: Won't start
I nearly left a 1/4 drive 8mm socket on the cam chain guide bolt in me klr engine rebuild last night!!!! Would it come of the bolt while it was in the engine, would it bolox, used another bolt and a quality socket next time....
Could of been interesting!
And while i'm on a rant why oh why to people use tubes of blue hylomar were its not needed!!?????
But at least you've got it figured out.
Cheers
Ian
Could of been interesting!
And while i'm on a rant why oh why to people use tubes of blue hylomar were its not needed!!?????
But at least you've got it figured out.
Cheers
Ian
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Re: Won't start
Evil put me in touch with someone that has a barrel that looks to be less scored than mine.
I bought it and will post my findings.
Just watching the good weather as I drive my car around.
I dont have a road legal bike until Saturday.
Get your umbrellas out for when i get back on the road.
I bought it and will post my findings.
Just watching the good weather as I drive my car around.
I dont have a road legal bike until Saturday.
Get your umbrellas out for when i get back on the road.
- CMSMJ1
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Re: Won't start
Keep at it dude - this is a good read and I'm impressed with the dedication.
More pics would be nice..but hey..that is just me.
I've been putting off an engine rebuild for some time...kind of happy I can get it done but it is not pressing so it sits on the side doing nowt.
Reading these kind of threads makes it more likely that I'll eventually get round to it.

More pics would be nice..but hey..that is just me.
I've been putting off an engine rebuild for some time...kind of happy I can get it done but it is not pressing so it sits on the side doing nowt.
Reading these kind of threads makes it more likely that I'll eventually get round to it.

IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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Re: Won't start
I have taken pictures all the way and when time allows I will post - I promise!
Current thinking - if it it ain't broke don't fix it!!!!!
Current thinking - if it it ain't broke don't fix it!!!!!
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Re: Won't start
You have fixed it though ... just not quite enoughMang wrote:I have taken pictures all the way and when time allows I will post - I promise!
Current thinking - if it it ain't broke don't fix it!!!!!

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Re: Won't start
OK i am down on compression and have found a new barrel agian this is scored. All eight of the bores (Both barrels) are oval so I priced up a rebore and some oversized pistons and new rings. As I haven't won the lottery recently I parked this idea. The position I am in is that the pistons on my bike look new and are well within tolerance so pistons are reuseable and barrels aren't. Current thinking is new sleeves for the bores which is a relatively (everything is relative compared to a rebore) inexpensive.
So the big question is has anyone done a resleeving ? if so how much and where did you get the sleeves.
So the big question is has anyone done a resleeving ? if so how much and where did you get the sleeves.
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Re: Won't start
I think most people would go down the route of a 600 engine at this stage.
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Re: Won't start
On this scale,sleeves are manufactured and fitted by the engine reconditioning company, who also do the re-bore.
It is a relatively cheap solution.
I did it regularly at British Engines at one time.
Smiles engineering at Newcastle did this extensively until they got the lucrative contract to re-power London buses.
Price for a 4 cyl. bike block was £150- ish plus the boring.(trade) 4 years ago.
Bore the old sleeves out.
Measure inner and outer bores.
Turn up new sleeves from suitable stock.
Press in new sleeves
Re-face block.
Re-bore to spec.
Hone to finished tolerance.
Bread and butter re-con work.
It is a relatively cheap solution.
I did it regularly at British Engines at one time.
Smiles engineering at Newcastle did this extensively until they got the lucrative contract to re-power London buses.
Price for a 4 cyl. bike block was £150- ish plus the boring.(trade) 4 years ago.
Bore the old sleeves out.
Measure inner and outer bores.
Turn up new sleeves from suitable stock.
Press in new sleeves
Re-face block.
Re-bore to spec.
Hone to finished tolerance.
Bread and butter re-con work.
A red box doth not a Snap On make.
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Re: Won't start
Evil I am not going to crack and go down the 600 route as yet.
I need more shit than this to break, remember my other bike is a 30 year old 750 turbo with DFI, anti dive forks and all the foibles that go with this type of bike. Am taking it for its MOT tomorrow which always causes the tester some confusion as he is to young to remember the bike and nearly faints when he sees its turbo charged.
I need more shit than this to break, remember my other bike is a 30 year old 750 turbo with DFI, anti dive forks and all the foibles that go with this type of bike. Am taking it for its MOT tomorrow which always causes the tester some confusion as he is to young to remember the bike and nearly faints when he sees its turbo charged.
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Re: Won't start
A GPz750 Turbo with their very own DFI (Doggy Fuel Injection) and I thought lagging was for boilers
Fighting spirit, that's good to see

Fighting spirit, that's good to see