Track suspension settings NC30

[Haydn]

I am planning on overhauling all the suspension components at the end of this year but for now I'm just trying to find some general settings on track for a 75 kg rider/probably 80kg with gear.

Looks like standard front forks with just preload adjustment on top and a standard rear shock with an upgraded spring of some sort. Currently the preload on the front is set to three lines or half way.

The rear end returns very slowly and I've found the rebound to be all the way in.

Once all the sus is sorted I will get the bike set up properly but for now any advice on a starting point for the track would be really appreciated.

Cheers
Haydn

[jetblack]

You can't dial in a one size fits all set of settings. Do it properly with a mate, a tape measure and a note pad and pen. You can set the bike up in about 30 mins.

Don't forget to wear your gear.

But if your suspension components are all knackered (and chances are they will be) there's little point.

[Haydn]

I understand exactly what your saying, but I need something to dial in for a few track days. The problem is I don't know what the standard settings are so I was hoping someone could tell me what standard is and suggest a couple of general improvements on that for track.

This winter coming up will see all the components sorted and setup properly.

For example, why would the rear rebound be all the way in so the rear end takes 2 seconds to return?

[magg]

Suggest start with sag:

front static 15-20mm
rider 35mm

rear static 5-10mm
rider 25mm

If you have the OEM progressive rate fork springs then the rider sag number could be closer to 45mm. Use the front and rear spring preload adjusters to set static sag and then measure rider sag.

Rider sag numbers significantly larger or smaller means the spring rates do not suit your bike/body weight and the springs should be changed.

Front and rear rebound damping should allow suspension to return to static position quickly without overshoot. No front adjusters means you will have to change oil to change damping rate, which might be necessary to control dive under brakes with a track bike.

Your rear rebound setting sounds too strong but it may have been set that way because the high speed rebound control, which cannot be externally adjusted, is too light. Whoever previously did the setup might have thought too much low speed rebound damping was better than too little high speed.