Advice requested please sudden bike failure

[Worther]

Hi All,

I'll try to keep this brief but include all relevant details, please assist with comments as any help/ideas will be very much appreciated.

Put bike away in September last year, started it a couple of times (to normal engine temp) and moved it (around 1 mile) to my mums shed in February this year. All was well. Bike sprayed with ACF50 and covered.

Got bike out on this past Monday and it started ok and ran for 5 mins on tickover (choke on). I then washed all ACF50 off (no jet wash) and let it dry off in the sun after using shammy (sic ?) leather. Moved the bike and started it again ready for a ride, it didn't run well then stalled. After a few attempts to start (on choke to start) I then tried to push start it down a small hill without success.

I then noticed the fuel level was low turned fuel tap to 'RES' and tried again without luck.

Put fresh petrol in and put battery on trickle charge, but after several attempts it would not start.

Now, I know I've been a bit stupid by (a) leaving a small amount of old petrol in the tank for a long time and (b) not charging battery up first.

Also, although not a complete amateur when it comes to bikes, I'd never even taken the seat off my NC30 till Monday I just ride it and its has always started first time and run perfect.

After using a bit of common sense (about time) and Haynes manual I suspect the following:
(a) old fuel/low level may have contaminated fuel hose/filter when it ran low and went to reserve
(b) fuel tap switch may be faulty
(c) perhaps spark plugs/ht leads or coils failed

What I would like to know is:
Based upon your experience, and the fact it was running fine a short while before (30 mins) does the above cover the most likely scenario?
Also, are there any tips regarding fault finding the issues listed above/other likely scenarios?

When it doesn't start the engine turns over as normal but its as if there's no spark/fuel because it won't fire up, I have checked the 'Kill Switch' and operated it a couple of times.
The battery is now at home fully charged on a trickle charger

I want to learn about my bike but realise I have limits, so if your opinion is 'take it to a garage' that's what I'll do.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and I hope you can help.

Worther

[jetblack]

Firdt job would be to check battery voltage. If that turns out to be ok then I'd suspect knackered plugs.

[Morespeedvicar]

Hi, try and measure the battery voltage and you could try and jump start it with a car, just be carefull. But i would think if its cranking over fast enough then the plugs are wet/ dead. Leave it for a day or two then try it again. If you get it going, run it down the street and get it hot otherewise the plugs will die again.
NC30's have tiny little spark plugs and stop sparking very easily if they get wet with fuel from a quick start/stop.
A carb clean may allso be needed.
Cheers
Ian

[Worther]

Thanks for the replies. I didn't realise the spark plugs were so delicate, the optimate charger says battery is ok now (I'll check with my multimeter to be sure), so I'll try refitting it and try to start her later today before taking the tank off. I was looking at doing a service soon anyway, so if it doesn't start I will get new plugs.

Thanks again for the advice

Worther

[CMSMJ1]

Aye, always the plugs*

Seems like it just got a touch unhappy, fouled them up a bit and then not wanting to behave. I'd take them out and clean the tips by holding them over a gas hob to burn off any shite.

Am sure you'll sort it..



*mostly always

[jetblack]

You can also set the kill switch to off, then crank it over with the throttle fully open,. This can help clear any flooding and get some air into the cylinders to get it all dried out before then trying to start it again.

[Worther]

Thanks again to everyone who has replied, when I took the seat unit off I have a look at where the spark plugs sit in the top end. Do I need a special tool for spark plug removal? I do not possess original tool kit. The Haynes manual said the rear ones can be removed quite easily but the front ones require the radiator moving out of the way (without draining).

Is this correct/best way to do it?

[CMSMJ1]

you need a 13mm deep socket - you can get the rear out no worries.

fronts - unhook the mounting stay for the rad, put some cardboard on the back of it to prevent it eating your knuckles and get in there.

[Worther]

Thanks again to all, now I have a good idea what to do, and what tools I need!
Fingers crossed!