NC30 loom cdi problems its electrical so i need lots of help

[magg]

There should not be continuity from the black/white wire through the TCI and back out the yellow/blue or blue/yellow wires. So your result is ok.

The loom test is to confirm that there is no shorts between the +ve and -ve power wires, the TCI is not connected. Your result is ok.

Ignition coil test is to prove that they are do not have a short circuit primary that could over-load the TCI.

The DUD TCI tests are done directly on the pins of the TCI, the loom is not connected. We are trying to determine which section inside the TCI has failed and thereby causing the fuse to blow. Your results unfortunately do not identify a faulty area.

Going back to the beginning of your problem, the fuse blow on lap one, you got back to the pits and change the fuse, did not blow immediately you tried to restart the bike. What was the sequence of events for the subsequent blown fuses?

[28hodge]

Yep that was pretty. Icu the sequence of events, it cut out on lap one, got recovered to pits changed the fuse, thumbed the starter it turned over so I stopped it from firing up as my session was finished and as I let go of the starter it blew the fuse again. Then I got whisps of smoke from the icu.

It pretty much continued to do this, though at one point it did blow the fuse the second I put it in! That was on the brand new shop battery not the a123 cell.

I'll do the tests again on the icu as I'm pretty sure I ballsed these up all i get is the infinity reading!

[magg]

Infinity readings would be the result for a good ICU. Could get a reading of zero ohms or very low indicating the problem area within the ICU or readings of infinity because internal parts of the ICU are now burnt out.

I assume you do not have an ignition switch, just use the run/stop switch going by your description. Would like more detail as to situation when fuse blow as you put it in, did you simply leave run/stop switch in run position.

Did the engine run at any time after it started blowing fuses.

Did the smoke continue from the ICU after each fuse change or did it eventually stop smoking.

[28hodge]

Yeah the time it blew straight away the rhd switch was on run.

There is no ignition, the live goes straight from fuse box the run off switch, the fuse would. Low and then the smoke would start to come out the icu so it had obviously started to get hot fuse blew and the smoke made its way out of the icu I guess. It's not run since, although it stopped blowing fuses and would turn over but the icu had been smoking twice by this point so I was getting no spark, now I have two ICUs to go at I would imagine it would run, but I don't want to risk blowing another icu when I haven't found a cause for the first one to go pop!

I get infinity through the broken icu (I'd imagine as its burnt out and knackered) and infinity through the two good ones, I'm hoping this is because they are fully working!

[magg]

The OEM ICU does not draw any current unless the engine is cranking/running, so to blow fuses with engine stopped means that something internal to the ICU has failed. You could post pictures of the circuit board of the failed ICU, it might help identify point of failure.

As a way forward, I suggest:

1. re-assemble your bike as a total loss ignition system with rect/reg disconnected and without an ignition fuse.

2. set your multimeter to measure 10 Amp DC, remembering to relocate the +ve probe to the 10 Amp socket on the multimeter

3. Put the +ve meter probe on one terminal of the ignition fuse holder and the -ve meter probe on the other terminal of the ignition fuse holder. You are substituting the multimeter for the fuse.

4. set the run/stop switch to RUN and measure the current

5. if current reads zero then you can start engine and go to step 7.

6. If you get a current reading disconnect immediately taking note as best you can of the reading and go to step 10.

7. this current reading is what the ICU needs to run the engine, should be significantly less than 10 amps.

8. stop engine and reconnect rect/reg but break the red/white wire that goes between the rect/reg and the starter solenoid. This stops the rect/reg output reaching the battery. Take another 12 volt bike battery and connect it to the red/white wire from the rect/reg and the chassis earth point. You are simply providing a test circuit for the rect/reg.

9. start engine again and measure the rect/reg battery voltage while increasing the engine revs. It should stay below 15 volts, if not you have the cause of the failed ICU.

10. Hopefully you did not reach this step.

A failed rect/reg would be an explanation for your problem but may not be the case. The ICU may simply have failed for unknown reasons

[28hodge]

Maggs thanks for this, i have printed it off and will go to the garage armed with it tomorrow morn, I'll let you know how i get in.

I'll take a oic of the ICU tonight and stick it up, i'll also go to the postie tomo and find out what postage costs to you will be.

Have a good weekend dude, WSBK is back on, how can it be a bad weekend?!!?!

[28hodge]

The OEM ICU does not draw any current unless the engine is cranking/running, so to blow fuses with engine stopped means that something internal to the ICU has failed. You could post pictures of the circuit board of the failed ICU, it might help identify point of failure.

As a way forward, I suggest:

1. re-assemble your bike as a total loss ignition system with rect/reg disconnected and without an ignition fuse.
Check

2. set your multimeter to measure 10 Amp DC, remembering to relocate the +ve probe to the 10 Amp socket on the multimeter
Check

3. Put the +ve meter probe on one terminal of the ignition fuse holder and the -ve meter probe on the other terminal of the ignition fuse holder. You are substituting the multimeter for the fuse.
check

4. set the run/stop switch to RUN and measure the current
check

5. if current reads zero then you can start engine and go to step 7.
it reads 0.02

6. If you get a current reading disconnect immediately taking note as best you can of the reading and go to step 10.

7. this current reading is what the ICU needs to run the engine, should be significantly less than 10 amps.

8. stop engine and reconnect rect/reg but break the red/white wire that goes between the rect/reg and the starter solenoid. This stops the rect/reg output reaching the battery. Take another 12 volt bike battery and connect it to the red/white wire from the rect/reg and the chassis earth point. You are simply providing a test circuit for the rect/reg.

9. start engine again and measure the rect/reg battery voltage while increasing the engine revs. It should stay below 15 volts, if not you have the cause of the failed ICU.

10. Hopefully you did not reach this step.

A failed rect/reg would be an explanation for your problem but may not be the case. The ICU may simply have failed for unknown reasons

im going back tomo, i'll fire it up then and check it and see what happens, its sounding like the ICU has just decided its had enough yeah?

I am going to make the bike total loss so I wasn't going to check the reg/rec, as I also don't have a spare 12v battery, can I use any battery or does it need to be a correct one for the bike ytx7 or 9?

should I check this anyway to see if this was the fault?

the postie was useless as his computer system was down so he couldn't check the cost of postage, i'll find out and get back to you tho

[magg]

Good to hear no current with engine stopped. Yes, any 12 volt car/bike battery would do, it is just a load to make the charging system function correctly. Testing the charging system was only a suggestion that might identify what caused the ICU to fail.

[28hodge]

So with no current with the engine stopped I "should" be ok to fire a fuse in and start it up, i'll give the reg/rec a test but I think the only battery I have to test it on is a completely flat/knackered battery that got killed from deep discharge.

I want to try and see what's caused the fault, so I can put my mind at rest that I aint going to turn up to the next trackday do half a lap and end up going home again, granted it could just have been the ICU killing itself.

I'll check the reg/rec so that I know if its useable or not, may decide to put it back on as reading around some do not enjoy the total loss engine characteristics and lack of engine braking.

[magg]

If you keep the multimeter connected for the first fire up, you can measure the current while the engine is running. Not done this measurement myself, would be interesting to see how much current is actually drawn with a running engine at various rpm. Would expect the value to be significantly less than 10 amps and remain fairly constant.

What voltage do you measure on your flat battery?

When you refer to engine characteristic change with total loss, is this with the rotor removed. I would not expect any noticeable change in engine braking by simply disconnecting the rect/reg, the charging system load is only a few hundred watts, not kW. No rotor on the other hand could/will change the engine dynamics, it is a large flywheel.