NC30 loom cdi problems its electrical so i need lots of help

[Cammo]

If you are using the on-board charging system, has the rect/reg failed resulting in high a voltage that could have caused the ignition control unit to fail.

One of my nc30's was overcharging this and took out the cdi:



I've since fitted yamaha reg/recs to every honda I've owned.

[28hodge]

From your description of the condition of the ignition control unit, I would say it has failed. I would expect there is low resistance between the pins of the ignition control unit that connect to the black/white and green wires and this is causing the fuse to blow, no matter what type of battery you use.

If this is the case, there will be nothing wrong with the loom as the fuse did its job.

Are you running total loss or a charging system? If you are using the on-board charging system, has the rect/reg failed resulting in high a voltage that could have caused the ignition control unit to fail. The high voltage mayl not have done the battery any good either.

Ok in my case the ignition has been removed, when you say the ignition control unit do you mean the rhd switch gear? It was running the full charging system.

My loom is as follows so I have live from battery to solenoid, then the live goes from this to the fuse box, and then to the rhd run off switch, if I test continuity through the rhd switch with the switch in the run position I get 001 ohms on the 2000 ohms scale, if I press the starter button in on the rhd switch and test that circuit I again get 001ohms.

I don't want to fry another cdi so wana est everything and find the issue before putting the next cdi and loom on!

If I test the solenoid itself I get 001 ohm for the circuit that the reg/Rec goes to but 004 to the circuit that goes to the fuse box.

Cammo I've opened up the cdi and it looks nowhere near as burnt as yours does, it's be wiring that goes into the cdi that seems to be a little charred but it's not mega black. I don't have a standard reg/Rec either but I don't think it's and r6 one either it's a big lump of a thing tho.

I think I'm going to go total loss with it and make the elec system as simple as possible, do you think I want a new rhd switch hear then magg?

Paul I'll not chop that loom that you have sent me, if I can I'll but her mine getting rid of what I don't need and use that for a total loss race loom, so I may be able to give you yours back, I'll let you know how I get on!

[magg]

The ignition control unit is what you call the CDI. I do not call it a CDI because it is not. Sorry if I confused you. With the multimeter on the 200 ohm range, what resistance do you measure between the "CDI" pins that connect to the black/white and green wires?

Your loom resistance readings are ok if you are measuring the resistance between various points in the same circuit, using the 2000 ohm multimeter range. On the 200 ohm multimeter range the reading would be something like 0.5 to 1.0 ohms. If you are measuring 1 to 2 ohms between the black/white and green wires with all electrical units e.g. rect/reg and "CDI" disconnected, then you have a loom problem.

[28hodge]

Testing through them two pins im getting no reading, but i am having to test them on the 2000Ohms scale as the multimeter aint wanting to work on the 200Ohms scale, which is pretty helpful.

I'm sure the Ignition Control unit (why isnt it a CDI??) is knackerd as it started smoking when the 10a fuse went, I just want to know why/what caused it to get to much voltage and made it blow, continuity through the loom is good, its 001-002 all the way through every circuit. Can i test the continuity through the reg/Rec its still on the bike as i just disconected the loom from it and took it home.

I have a cdi on the way

[magg]

It's not a CDI because CDI stands for Capacitor Discharge Ignition unit and the NC30/35 uses a Transistor Controlled Ignition unit, commonly referred to as a TCI unit, although I prefer ignition control unit that is more complicated that the TCI term suggests.

Without a functioning 200 ohm resistance range your testing will be somewhat limited, however try measuring the resistance between the blue/yellow wire that connects to one ignition coil and the black/white wire that should also connect to the ignition coil and the between the yellow/blue wire that connects to the second ignition coil and again its black/white wire. Both results should be infinite resistance. If the 200 ohm range was working you could also measure the primary resistance of both ignition coils to make sure neither had developed a short circuit.

The cause of the problem is most likely either:

1. over-voltage caused by a failed rect/reg,

2. a loom short between the blue/yellow and yellow/blue wires and the black/white wires

3. an ignition coil with a short circuit primary

4. the ignition control unit simply failed

If 2 and 3 are not the problem then the rect/reg can be tested in isolation but it is quite complicated, easier to do it on a running bike. Just measure the battery voltage while slowly increasing the revs. The voltage should not get higher than 15 volts DC, if it does then the rect/reg is stuffed.

If the rect/reg is ok then you may never find the cause other than the ignition control unit simply failed.

[28hodge]

Cheers magg, I'll carry out the tests as you explained, I'll get a multimeter with a working 200OHms scale and test the coils etc.

I think the rec/reg has bust itself tho, as the fuse went first time whilst running on track, it was he first lap of the first session, and it went after I'd really opened it up down one of the straights, so it blew after being revved hard for the first time. But I'll test all the same.

I'm going to go total loss with it and attach a trickle charging harness to it so that should keep it safe from blowing another ignition control unit, thanks for all your help mate

[magg]

Total loss will certainly stop any future over-voltage issue.

I would be interested in examining your dud ignition control unit. My location is a complication but I would be willing to cover the postage if reasonable. Would you be prepared to inquire at your end what it would cost to send it to Sydney Australia, via the slowest/cheapest means possible.

[28hodge]

Would you be prepared to inquire at your end what it would cost to send it to Sydney Australia, via the slowest/cheapest means possible.

Haha yeah no probs won't be able to ask at the posits till saturday, if it's not a daft amount I'll cover it as way of thanks for the help in this thread, if it is daft then we can go halves or work summat out.

I measured the voltage across my new lead acid battery and got 15.5v?? Then measured my a123 batter and got 16.5v these both seem high to me! Is this a sign of overcharging?

[magg]

This is with engine running, what rpm, and does the voltage continue to increase as you increase the rpm? Voltages are higher than desirable but if they keep rising then you have an over-charging problem or your multimeter is inaccurate. To check the accuracy of your multimeter, measure your car battery voltage engine off, should be around 13 volts and will rise to 14.0-14.5 with engine running.

[28hodge]

No magg these are measured off the bike, seem very high! The battery is brand new out the packet all it's done is turn the bike over a couple of times!

The bike never fired or ran with this battery as the ignition control unit was dead by this point!

Bought another multimeter to double check, should be in the post tomorrow with a bit of luck