NC30 build
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- Site Supporter
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- Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:59 pm
- Bike owned: NC23 NC30 CRM250
- Location: West Midlands
NC30 build
Time to start sorting my nc30. I bought it from a forum member on here with intentions of putting it back on the road but its taking me some time to even start it properly! The bike had been crashed and the fairings are all damaged, some beyond repair. It was in my favourite type 4 scheme which made me buy it but finding replacement panels proved too much so its going to have to morph into a diff scheme.
I hope I am wrong but this may be a long build thread, partly as the bike isn’t at my house and the wife hates the idea of it so I can only work on it as and when possible. I have only started it because the nc30 was the bike I originally wanted as my first bike but I ended up getting an nc23 as I couldnt find an nc30 in my original ‘just passed’ price bracket. I have to admit though, I really like the triarm so this 30 has a hard act to follow.
Already sourced the following parts from forum members, thanks guys–
Paddock stand – I can get cracking now…….!
Full set of type 3 panels and tank, - slightly damaged lowers but very useable – on the look out for some undamaged type 3 lowers – so if you know of any – pls bear me in mind.
(used) Pair of Geoffs ali rads
New clear screen (not oem)
Scorpion end can and cut rear exhaust
So far done-
Clipon, left hand switchgear, clutch lever, mirror stay bracket, clocks, left hand rearset, all been sourced and the majority now replaced.
So at the moment even though I bought the bike for decent money this bike owes me a lot more than I originally intended to spend. I didn’t want to be out of pocket on the bike but I am already getting carried away! I doubt I will get my money back once its done, rebuilt and decent NC30’s don’t seem to make the money people hope they will – but the money aspect ( although an issue for me as I haven’t got loads of money sloshing round), isn’t really the point of taking on a 21 year old bike is it!
My ‘plan’ is to get the bike running and in a decent state, get it mot’d and see how it goes. If I like it then I will get it back home and may attempt a proper strip down and rebuild next year. For now I want it working and looking like a classic NC30 again. No doubt I will need help along the way – that’s the fun of it though isn’t it?!

Oh and no - i didnt remove the fairing with the cold chisel and lump hammer!
I hope I am wrong but this may be a long build thread, partly as the bike isn’t at my house and the wife hates the idea of it so I can only work on it as and when possible. I have only started it because the nc30 was the bike I originally wanted as my first bike but I ended up getting an nc23 as I couldnt find an nc30 in my original ‘just passed’ price bracket. I have to admit though, I really like the triarm so this 30 has a hard act to follow.
Already sourced the following parts from forum members, thanks guys–
Paddock stand – I can get cracking now…….!
Full set of type 3 panels and tank, - slightly damaged lowers but very useable – on the look out for some undamaged type 3 lowers – so if you know of any – pls bear me in mind.
(used) Pair of Geoffs ali rads
New clear screen (not oem)
Scorpion end can and cut rear exhaust
So far done-
Clipon, left hand switchgear, clutch lever, mirror stay bracket, clocks, left hand rearset, all been sourced and the majority now replaced.
So at the moment even though I bought the bike for decent money this bike owes me a lot more than I originally intended to spend. I didn’t want to be out of pocket on the bike but I am already getting carried away! I doubt I will get my money back once its done, rebuilt and decent NC30’s don’t seem to make the money people hope they will – but the money aspect ( although an issue for me as I haven’t got loads of money sloshing round), isn’t really the point of taking on a 21 year old bike is it!
My ‘plan’ is to get the bike running and in a decent state, get it mot’d and see how it goes. If I like it then I will get it back home and may attempt a proper strip down and rebuild next year. For now I want it working and looking like a classic NC30 again. No doubt I will need help along the way – that’s the fun of it though isn’t it?!

Oh and no - i didnt remove the fairing with the cold chisel and lump hammer!
- ibby4585
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- Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2009 1:42 pm
- Bike owned: SP's
- Location: oxfordshire
Re: NC30 build
Cool. Get cracking mate. Always nice to see a 30 renovation.
Although slightly worried about the bolster chisel and lump hammer!!
Although slightly worried about the bolster chisel and lump hammer!!
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- Site Supporter
- Posts: 836
- Joined: Mon May 11, 2009 3:25 pm
- Bike owned: NC30
Re: NC30 build
We love builds on here, plenty of pics please
Get her up and running and we'll have a ride out, your not far from me and I'm sure we can get a few more 'locals' together
Anything you need gimme a shout would be pleased to help...

Get her up and running and we'll have a ride out, your not far from me and I'm sure we can get a few more 'locals' together

Anything you need gimme a shout would be pleased to help...
4 WHEELS MOVE THE BODY 2 WHEELS MOVE THE SOUL
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- Site Supporter
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:59 pm
- Bike owned: NC23 NC30 CRM250
- Location: West Midlands
Re: NC30 build
So if the front wheel appears to be running off to the left when the bars are straight - best way to find out whats wrong - and what is the most probable reason?.......do i need to drop the front forks out?
The bike had been highsided by the previous owner.
The bike had been highsided by the previous owner.

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- Settled in member
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:36 pm
- Bike owned: '92 nc30
- Location: norwich, norfolk
Re: NC30 build
hi, great to see another nc30 getting some much needed love..
the project bike that im currently rebuilding had a very similar issue, when the bars were straight the wheel was a fair way off to the left, forks looked straight and i couldnt see what the issue was, i had to remove my forks as i wanted to paint them and also my top yolk for the same reason.. upon refitting everything then lined up nice and straight, if your forks look straight you may have twisted yokes, if so i believe you would need to loosen the top and bottom yolk bolts and give the yokes a few hits with a rubber mallet or something similar, they may then re align. i have done this in the past and it worked..
you may worse case need to loosen the top yolk bolt and lock-rings, to allow them to move seperatley from each other, once the yokes and wheel are straight you can then adjust the handlebars if needed.
hope this is of help...
the project bike that im currently rebuilding had a very similar issue, when the bars were straight the wheel was a fair way off to the left, forks looked straight and i couldnt see what the issue was, i had to remove my forks as i wanted to paint them and also my top yolk for the same reason.. upon refitting everything then lined up nice and straight, if your forks look straight you may have twisted yokes, if so i believe you would need to loosen the top and bottom yolk bolts and give the yokes a few hits with a rubber mallet or something similar, they may then re align. i have done this in the past and it worked..
you may worse case need to loosen the top yolk bolt and lock-rings, to allow them to move seperatley from each other, once the yokes and wheel are straight you can then adjust the handlebars if needed.
hope this is of help...

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- Site Supporter
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:59 pm
- Bike owned: NC23 NC30 CRM250
- Location: West Midlands
Re: NC30 build
Yes great, will give it a go. Just trying to put together a shopping list to get it back on the road. All the little bits soon add up!
Edit- whAt size socket is the top yoke stem, it's mahoosive? Oh and is the rear wheel nut the same size?
Edit- whAt size socket is the top yoke stem, it's mahoosive? Oh and is the rear wheel nut the same size?
- bikemonkey
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 1521
- Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 12:33 pm
- Bike owned: 92 NC30, 90 VFR750
- Location: Oxfordshire
Re: NC30 build
41mm socket for the top yoke stem nut.
Rear wheel nut is 36mm, and the rear wheel hub nut is 46mm.
Big bastard sockets.
Rear wheel nut is 36mm, and the rear wheel hub nut is 46mm.
Big bastard sockets.
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- Site Supporter
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:59 pm
- Bike owned: NC23 NC30 CRM250
- Location: West Midlands
Re: NC30 build
Bloomin heck, had a look - there is £30 worth of sockets, they can wait !
- Deviant400
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- Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:50 pm
- Bike owned: NC30, Kona Cowan
- Location: Trowbridge
Re: NC30 build
car boot sales , i got all those sockets for under a tenner (quality used ones ) 

Deviants AM/PM buildxivlia wrote:no i am not dead. ive just been trying a few things....
viewtopic.php?f=62&t=27307
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- Site Supporter
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:59 pm
- Bike owned: NC23 NC30 CRM250
- Location: West Midlands
Re: NC30 build
mmmm, I still havent bought them! maybe i should go to a few car boots and get this moving! Been hoarding parts so when i start it will move quickly i hope!