4DX Dead Start Button + other question

[Mike Shelby]

Hi - been swapping various bits from my 4DX onto my 3TJ that my son is using (as the 3TJ was just clicking and not turning over) - got his starting ok now (turned out to be the starter motor afterall) - anyway put my 4DX all back how it was and now the start button is completley dead it seems. I've double checked everythings connected - and can't understand why it won't start. It was fine until I took bits off such as the selonoid and various relays - but have put them all back on now. Oil and neutral lights come on as they should and the kill switch is in the run position. Battery is also fully charged. Any ideas what's wrong please?

Also need to know a name of a part please - it's a porcelin bar near the battery that has 2 wires and a connector block. Mine is in a bad state and all cracked/chipped/falling apart and where the 2 wires come out look very rusty/corroded - but I don't know what to call it? - Does anyone have a spare one they could sell me?

Thanks - Mike

[Evilchicken0]

I'm pretty sure that's called a "white thing". I reached a loom recently so there might be one on there.

Next up. It sounds like a kill switch. It might be the handlebar switch or it could be the side stand cut out switch not connected or maybe loose. For that to work the bike needs to be in neutral, there's a netrual sensor, its a white plastic thing held by two bolts under the front sprocket cover. Lastly there's a clutch switch up by the clutch lever.
Try starting it with the clutch in. Or bridge the solenoid terminals with an old screw driver (you'll get some sparks)
Oh and check the engine earth wire it goes from the battery black terminal to the frame and then to the engine

[rockTJ]

I'm pretty sure the thing you are refering to is the resistor that sits just behind the battery, alongside the starter relay. Part number 3K5-85370-00 if you want to try and order one, though you may be lucky and find one on ebay. According to the wiring diagram it has red/white and light green wires and is wired in parallel to a 'sensor'. Try flicking your reserve switch and see if the fuel pump comes to life.

As Evil has said the bike has various switch type sensors to make sure you dont pull away with the sidestand down, try pulling the clutch in. Oh and double check all your fuses!

hope you get it sorted!

Chris

[Hogdigerdy Dog]

stupid question but have you checked out the main relay (not to be confused with the starter relay or solenoid) it lives under the left rear panel next to the fuse box and has about 8/9 wires, this is what controls the clutch, side stand and neutral switches, as well as the fuel pump, fuel sender and (the white thing ) resistor, all the switches in the relay have to be in the correct position before it sends a signal to the cdi telling it your good to go, well that's what's sposed to happen anyway
i had a load of trouble with mine and it turned out one of the spades on the relay was corroded and not giving a good connection, so i had to get another one

wiring diagram from home page below might be helpful, it's just marked relay at bottom left of diagram

http://www.400greybike.com/files/fzr400 ... iagram.pdf

[Evilchicken0]

Ah yeah - I had a 3en2 that wouldn't start on the button but it would bump or start if the solenoid was bridged. The blue wire going into this was broken at the connector - I crimped a spade onto the wire then sharpened it and shoved it between the original crimp and the housing - a bit of a bodge but it worked.

[willandrip]

The ceramic ballast resistor is part of the electric reserve fuel system and is included to reduce the heat produced when the reserve wiring is incomplete/broken or disconnected or the reserve switch is left in the reserve position for long periods.
It is the same item on ALL yamahas utilizing the electric reserve system and is wired in series.
It is often sourced from a cheap/damaged fuel pump s/h or one was listed from the usual place 10 days ago at £10 BIN.
No short term damage is anticipated if malfunction occurs or removed but reserve will always be selected as system is incomplete.
Problem is you will burn out level sensor in tank and unless replaced you will be on reserve continiously !
That sensor reaches 80 deg. C in continious operation when tank below reserve level=hence ballast resistor.
It would be wise to disconnect sensor in tank at multiplug until sorted.
On the 1000's it is not part of the start/failsafe/fuel pump operation circuit and does not prevent pump running or interfere with starter circuit.
Without access to specific wiring dia for your model I am unable to confirm on 3TJ/4dx.

[Mike Shelby]

Thanks for all the replies and advice guys - off work today so will go and check all this out (just hope it's something stupid I've missed but I have had a good look and checked all fuses etc) - and thanks for the wiring diagram.

Just strange how it was starting and running perfect before I started taking bits off to try and get the other one starting - but I'm sure everything I took off has gone back on.

Might have to start swapping relays/parts from my 3TJ my son's using now - just to try and elliminate things.
Sods law I just get one sorted and then the other packs in!!! GGrrrrr

[Mike Shelby]

Ok - looks like Hogdigerdy Dog was right . . . The plug from the loom with 8/9 wires in it had a blue wire hanging out of the plastic plug! Poked it in and held it and the start button has life (solonoid was just clicking so need a new one of them too now - if anyone can help? - will one fit from another FZR600/1000 or YZF750 etc??)
Been looking on ebay and some seem similar but some with an extra red wire.

Problem now is how do I get into the plastic plug to try and re-attach the wire? I poked it in too far and it must have touched another wire underneath too as it tried to start even with the ignition key out!!! (Think I've learned how to hot wire now!!)

[Hogdigerdy Dog]

you could pull the old female spade out of the connector and attach a new one to the wire then poke it back in the connector, but this will leave that spade loose and will need pushing in once the connector is plugged into the relay to make sure it's home

or try and find an identical connector and re-fit to the loom

on mine the blue wire (yeah that one ) had gone, but it was the male spade in the relay, not connector, so ended up getting a s/h loom with all relays, fuses and wot not connected

I crimped a spade onto the wire then sharpened it and shoved it between the original crimp and the housing - a bit of a bodge but it worked.

^^^^ or try this until your sure it's the main problem and not a symptom, i had problems with the relay, but before that it was the fuse box then the flasher unit and all caused by water ingress from the back wheel, i know there's a screen thing between the wheel and electrics but if you ride in the wet alot it don't work to good, iv'e had no problems since i fitted a carrier bag (from the supermarket of your choice) around the electrics

[Evilchicken0]

You might be able to get the old connector out but you'll a tool - it's like a very narrow flat screw driver, you slide it between the connector and the housing and moves the tag. then all you need is the right size crimp .... try Maplins or Vehicle Wiring Products.

(Easier to bodge it though )