Some progress at last.

[willandrip]

Eventually got space in garage to get cracking on this.Spitting feathers as 10 days of sunshine passed by and not a bat struck.
Reg/rec warnings had been causing concern so decided to investigate;has been replaced in past by looks of things.

Coolant drain showed evidence of rust traces,thats the trouble with red antifreeze,it masks hidden problems.

However when reverse flushed with hot hose it was only a small amount so no major concerns.Rad is as new.

Front braided lines mock up with Fazer master cylinder to match blue spot calipers (awaiting delivery) Decided to use intergral reservoir type as more in keeping with era.Basically just copied my clubmans Fzr1000 set-up.Now I know more experienced members were unable to avoid instrument cluster issues with twin lines but same problem occurred on Fzr 1000 and was rectified so hoping to copy that mod.

On to c/s upgrade

Front sprocket nut (32mm) undoes effortlessly.
Original chain along with rear sprocket would still have been servicable,front should have been changed 5k previously for those who like to get their moneysworth ! and would have extended c/s set life by a further 10k plus.Still ample lubrication to removable link once split due to good quality components and maintenance.

Upgrade 520 D.I.D alongside original as way of comparison.Original front showing rubber dampener.

Upgrade to clutch lever assy with span adjuster. GPZ500z donor machine.As brake master upgrade is span adjustable I decided to match clutch but will have to colour brake lever as clutch is too good to strip back to ally.

New lever assy to follow!!!

Eventually got to removing damaged generator cover,which answered question of why gasket was discontinued after 1989,its simply not required and gasket sealant (Yamabond No.3) suffices.Strangely use of sprocket cover gasket still remains and it only partly fits casing and results in a "muck trap" right above clutch pushrod.
Back to casing which has been sufficiently indented to contact rotor assy. at some point.Coolant requires draining so metal waterpump connection pipe can be relocated to remove this casing or it would have been done much sooner and a replacement casing sourced.

Ready for degrease using parafin via air powered wash gun,hot powerwash,traffic film remover via powerhose to remove parafin residues then hot rinse.(my boilers get the same treatment).Oops I mean boilersuits.

All header pipe nuts removed without concern but I would not attempt to remove exup valve without the correct tools.

When I purchased this bike the seller had been told that the camchain was in need of immediate replacement and when starting it for me initially he referred to the rattling, tinkiling sound.I had experience of the worn exup bush being mistaken for camchain wear so knew what to expect here.!!
Firstly remove exup valve assy.

Next remove the 5mm bolt that retains the pulley flange .

Removed.

Then drift out valve carefully to expose severely oval graphite bush (very poor photo)


So got those jobs done,painted rear wheel,fitted sprockets,fitted replacement choke lever assy.and a few other little jobs in preparation for changing shock absorber tomorrow.

[Evilchicken0]

The front sproket is interesting ... although the one on my project 3TJ is a lot more worn than that .... it will scare you !!!

[hipringle]

Great work Bill theres no flies on you!. Hopefully the rattle will be gone once the exup valve is sorted. Back to you now, have you not got work to go to...

[willandrip]

No work worth doing at present Mark,I,m a plant operator and rates offered are not worth going to work for.Fortunately 2 or 3 months a year on good jobs can see me through the year.