NC24 Big help needed Please!!!!!

[Concrete Jungle]

Ou habites tu Cha? I MIGHT be able to drop you off a carbtune Sat or Sunday morning if you still need / want to use one.

[Lucky Tampon]

I live in Garstang mate, if you could that would be epic! If not i can wait or maybe ride up to you? As long as it's not raining anyhow as it appears my bike doesn't work in the rain lol.

Legend!

[Concrete Jungle]

I can get to Garstang no problem, rain or no rain!

[speedy231278]

Does it only bugger about in the rain? When I first got my RVF it was terrible for spluttering and even stalling when the rain got heavy or it had been wet for ages. It had a service a little while after, and the shop reckoned the plugs were knackered and the rubber mats that go all over the place around the engine to keep the elements out were all scrunched up and in the wrong places. New plugs and the rubber bits in the right places and in 10 years it's never done it since....

[Lucky Tampon]

Yeah it appears that my most recently posted problem which included lots of backfiring and bump starting was only due to the rain getting into the electrics somewhere along the line as after a day of drying out it works fine again.... Well, when i say it works fine again what i actually mean is it works but i've now got the original problem of the number 4 cylinder dropping out as and when it wants to. Will have a look at the rubber mats also and see what the craic is there.

Ok so i've been testing the coils this afternoon and on the no.4 coil i'm getting a reading of 3.4 ohms and a reading through the HT lead on the setting 2000k of between 1030 and 2000 with it averaging around the 1500-1700 mark. The coil is also earthed properly. So that just about rules that out which is a bit annyoying since i'd pinned my hopes on it being faulty

So what can i test next? Can the ignition box be tested? Though i wouldn't have thought i'd only have the one cylinder dropping out if it was the case of that being faulty. I've also heard that sometimes coils can be faulty only when they become hot, so would it be worth testing them after a run do you think?

[Lucky Tampon]

Just seen this, perhaps this is my problem? Though i don't fully grasp what he's getting at lol, i'm not too good at electrics so if anyone could explain this a bit better that would be good. Ta.

sorry i ment for cheaking loom and wiring with the restince bit because you could have a wire thats pulled and only has one thread left attached and it will still read good but put some load on it and you will get voltage drop. same for dirty contacts

to cheak coil the primery should be conected to the 2 pin conector and the secondery is conected to the plug lead and the metal bar that goes trough it witch is then conected to the frame and engine it has to as the plug is earthed at the cyl head make sence?

on two output coils (used on stright 2,4,6 motor)the sparks goes to one plug though the cyl head then back trough the ohter plug (wasted spark system) 1&4 2&3 work as a pair
and the spark cleans the other plug on the exaust stroke as its on the opersit bit of the cycle to the firing cyl.
on v4s this cant be used as the 4cyls are not in line 2 of them are moved back about 60 degre so thay need to be firing 60+180 degree later.

the easyet way to test the coil is to put the plug in the lead on the head and put 12v trough the primary but only touch it on quick and you should have a nice blue spark
tho if any of thease where the problem it would run on three cyl
unless there is no contact between the motor and the frame or bar trough the coils.

[Neosophist]

Yeah it appears that my most recently posted problem which included lots of backfiring and bump starting was only due to the rain getting into the electrics somewhere along the line as after a day of drying out it works fine again.... Well, when i say it works fine again what i actually mean is it works but i've now got the original problem of the number 4 cylinder dropping out as and when it wants to. Will have a look at the rubber mats also and see what the craic is there.

Ok so i've been testing the coils this afternoon and on the no.4 coil i'm getting a reading of 3.4 ohms and a reading through the HT lead on the setting 2000k of between 1030 and 2000 with it averaging around the 1500-1700 mark. The coil is also earthed properly. So that just about rules that out which is a bit annyoying since i'd pinned my hopes on it being faulty

So what can i test next? Can the ignition box be tested? Though i wouldn't have thought i'd only have the one cylinder dropping out if it was the case of that being faulty. I've also heard that sometimes coils can be faulty only when they become hot, so would it be worth testing them after a run do you think?

You replaced the plugs right? Plugs can also break down when hot.

Swap the plugs between the two front cylinders to isolate the plugs before you go any further.

A few years ago I had this issue with intermittent misfire so replaced the plugs with new, still had it.

Stripped and rebuilt the entire bike / triple checked everything, was about to give up when I tried new plugs again and it cured it! The new plugs I brought, one of them was knackered from the factory. If you swap them over and it stll does the same cylinder at least you know it isnt the plugs.

Since the bike has 4 coils, swap the two fronts over after ruling out plugs.. if the problem swaps then you know its the coil.. if it stays the same cylinder the coil is fine and something else is at fault!

[magg]

Could you clarify your ignition coil HT resistance readings. You should make the measure between the plug lead and either of the primary coil terminals, not the metal core of the ignition coil. I would expect approximately 5000 ohms without a plug cap fitted and about 10000 ohms with a plug cap fitted.

[Lucky Tampon]

You replaced the plugs right? Plugs can also break down when hot.

Swap the plugs between the two front cylinders to isolate the plugs before you go any further.

A few years ago I had this issue with intermittent misfire so replaced the plugs with new, still had it.

Stripped and rebuilt the entire bike / triple checked everything, was about to give up when I tried new plugs again and it cured it! The new plugs I brought, one of them was knackered from the factory. If you swap them over and it stll does the same cylinder at least you know it isnt the plugs.

Since the bike has 4 coils, swap the two fronts over after ruling out plugs.. if the problem swaps then you know its the coil.. if it stays the same cylinder the coil is fine and something else is at fault!

Yeah i replaced the plugs a few weeks ago and when the problem still persisted i changed the front 2 plugs so it's definitely not them.

Going to try swapping the coils over tomorrow and see what happens.

As of yesterday the cylinder died out all together, so rather than it being intermittent it just isn't firing full stop now so i'll know 100% when i swap the coils over if it is that.

Thanks for all the help so far, really appreciate it.

Could you clarify your ignition coil HT resistance readings. You should make the measure between the plug lead and either of the primary coil terminals, not the metal core of the ignition coil. I would expect approximately 5000 ohms without a plug cap fitted and about 10000 ohms with a plug cap fitted.

I'm still not 100% on what the numbers mean but when i measured between the plug cap and negative coil terminal on the 2000k setting i was seeing between 1000 and infinite with it being averagely about 16-1700.... Though as i say i've no idea what the meaning of those are :S

[magg]

Is the 1000 reading on the 2000K setting with the plug cap fitted? If so remove the plug cap and measure again. 1000 on the 2000K setting is 1,000,000 ohms and is too much. The plug cap could be open circuit and will result in a poor spark. Plug caps do not last for ever, have known some to fail in 1-2 years.