Clutch drag

[RVF Bel]

Any help would be appreciated please, I took my bike out earlier today, it was fine then all of sudden it wouldn't go into gear, it turn out to be like the clutch cable had stretched 1/4inch, I adjusted the cable and now goes into gear, however it is harsh and drags with clonk when changing through gears.

I have stripped the clutch, the basket and friction plates look ok no wear. Any ideas???

[Neosophist]

Any help would be appreciated please, I took my bike out earlier today, it was fine then all of sudden it wouldn't go into gear, it turn out to be like the clutch cable had stretched 1/4inch, I adjusted the cable and now goes into gear, however it is harsh and drags with clonk when changing through gears.

I have stripped the clutch, the basket and friction plates look ok no wear. Any ideas???

worn clutch cable? is it stretched?

did you look the fingers in the basket.. sometimes they wear grooves so the plates dont fully release and always drag.

[RVF Bel]

Thanks for the reply basket is fine and friction plates seem ok, I am planning to strip the right hand side housing the bit that moves the 30cm rod over that's the only thing I can think off. That's not fully engaging the clutch any other ideas?

[Cammo]

It's possible that the gear linkage (part #5 in the link below) may have moved around the splined input shaft if the spline was a bit worn and got a hard change from your foot. Not likely, but a possibility.

http://www.akhara.com/nc30/nc30parts/files/37.htm

The linkage has a small punch mark and so does the input shaft, the marks should line up, a quick check will confirm.

[RVF Bel]

Thank you for the help will let you know once i have stripped it and but it back together.

[gerryg]

Hi. I have the same problem on my NC35. Have you changed your plates yet? Most of the shops just sell the friction plates but could it be the steel plates are distorted? Any views would be appreciated before I strip mine down.
Gerryg

[RVF Bel]

The punch marks allign up together and the nut was tight as it could get, this would still not account for the excessive play in the cable that was caused. I had the generator side off on the weekend and looked at the bit that moves the rod over, (it appeared to work ok and not stick). I am waiting for some gaskets to come and the socket, I guess I will box it up and see what happens.

Gerry you got more chances bending the friction plates as there all sandwiched up togther. Word of advise Gerry don't follow the Haynes Manual your better of watching the U tube video in this section. saves a lot of time and opening uncessary bits.

[gerryg]

I'll order some friction plates. I have watched the U Tube video. Thanks.

[RVF Bel]

UPDATE: Please help before i send it to the garage
Went out for a ride everything was ok, no problems with gear changes everything was smooth through gear changes no clonks or drag.
Came back parked bike up open garage door pulled in the clutch like a numpty I put it into first quite hard made a clonk and the engine stalled.
Tried starting it with clutch pulled in it would not start.
Looked at the clutch lever/cable there was about a 1inch excessive play which was not there previously. Took the fairing off and adjusted the clutch cable and got it to start with green neutral light working.

Moved the bike into the garage when selecting first gear with the engine running the change was loud and went with a clonk, then whilst stationary I thought that was strange I moved up gears 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th & 6th each gear change went with a clonk which previously never.

So far I have:
Drained oil
Removed cir-clip, removed centre piece and undone clutch castle nut, removed clutch plates from basket and checked friction plates all ok. checked basket and checked if rod was not damaged reassembled tightened clutch nut to 85Nm. Adjusted clutch cable (noted only the last 3, 4 friction plates moved only when operating the clutch)
Refitted clutch cover
Checked and cleaned opposite side (LEFT) which moves the rod over to operate the clutch re-assembled.
Refilled with engine oil (2.5litres).
Started ok Neutral light NOT working, starter motor only operates when clutch lever is pulled in.
When put in gear and clutch lever pulled in rear wheel does not turn freely in every gear except when in Neutral
When started and put into first gear bike shoots off with clutch lever pulled in.

What do you think I have done wrong, just thinking now, I never soaked the clutch/friction plates in oil. could this be the problem?

if not any one know any decent technician in the Birmingham area who could fix it?

[CMSMJ1]

It will be something basic so start from the start

Check the lever end - is the ferrule OK, is the cable in the gubbins right and is the aduster not stripped?

it then routes through a 90 deg bend - check condition - and down through a cable holder and thence to the actuator arm.

how much slack is at the arm? Is the cover bolted on OK? Are the two adjuster nuts set right?

My bikes have always dragged a bit when in gear and clutch in - they just do when you have the clutch set somewhere near right.

My money is on the little cup that presses the rod and is acted on by the arm - it can fall out, not be in right to start with and generall be a ballache.

I'd doubt that there is anything wrong with the plates - you find they slip like buggery when they are at fault, not drag.