xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions
- jim157
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- CMSMJ1
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Re: xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions
Why on the left side of the road for a left hander? Asking for trouble there dude.
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
- iDemonix
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Re: xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions
For a left hand corner you should be in the middle of the road (when safe) or if you can see CLEARLY nothing is coming then nip over in to the right lane.
I have to agree with everyone that I'm not sure this bike is for you. I'm not saying this in a reverse psychology way so you'll try harder to prove us wrong, you really need to get a modern reliable bike, or at least something else. Get a CB500, you can trick them out and they're bullet proof. A mate of mine has an incredible one that loses litre bikes on track (on corners!).
You're guessing your way through problems that can have VERY severe consequences. When I do anything that could affect final drive for example, I check, double check and triple check with a calibrated torque wrench and often ask for a 2nd pair of eyes to glance at it. Imagine a rear wheel lockup at 70mph.
Sell it as a project, move on, you've done a lot of learning, but the best bet is to start again as this bike now has SO. MANY. PROBLEMS. that it needs someone professional or someone who knows what they're doing to try and repair it from the ground up.
Seriously, £100, I'll take it off you and even arrange a courier to come get it.
I have to agree with everyone that I'm not sure this bike is for you. I'm not saying this in a reverse psychology way so you'll try harder to prove us wrong, you really need to get a modern reliable bike, or at least something else. Get a CB500, you can trick them out and they're bullet proof. A mate of mine has an incredible one that loses litre bikes on track (on corners!).
You're guessing your way through problems that can have VERY severe consequences. When I do anything that could affect final drive for example, I check, double check and triple check with a calibrated torque wrench and often ask for a 2nd pair of eyes to glance at it. Imagine a rear wheel lockup at 70mph.
Sell it as a project, move on, you've done a lot of learning, but the best bet is to start again as this bike now has SO. MANY. PROBLEMS. that it needs someone professional or someone who knows what they're doing to try and repair it from the ground up.
Seriously, £100, I'll take it off you and even arrange a courier to come get it.
A roaring V4 is the summer soundtrack.
- xivlia
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Re: xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions
the r125 was my first bike. and i was a total beginner. this happend within the first month of getting it. and i am not selling the nc30 for a 100 quid lol. the forks cost more than that. i just need to do a few last things before i totally give up
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Re: xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions
Don't give up. You'll always have issues to fix..might as well get it sorted!!
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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Re: xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions
Unfortunately you appear to have a bike that was not well treated by previous owners.
I would suggest that to attain long term reliability that all the repairs you make are sound. An example would be the problem with the ignition trigger unit retaining bolt. It is unclear if you had it repaired to OEM standard or simply left it in its butchered form.
For a fresh start, what are the current issues that need to be addressed.
I would suggest that to attain long term reliability that all the repairs you make are sound. An example would be the problem with the ignition trigger unit retaining bolt. It is unclear if you had it repaired to OEM standard or simply left it in its butchered form.
For a fresh start, what are the current issues that need to be addressed.
- xivlia
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Re: xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions
what is the ignition trigger unit retaining bolt? and where is it.
and as for current problems that needs to be addressed are..... the jamming issue of the starter clutch when pressing the ignition switch. even though i replaced my broken starter clutch the problem is still there, it is more likely to be my battery, and maybe my stator? if that would affect the ignition at all, i dont know.
the other problem is the fact that my bike is now running like shit... ever since i remove the sprocket cover and reassembled it, the bike starter to run like a piece of crap. the bike starts off fine... runs for 5 mins. and revs drop and cut off... oor, if i start the bike quickly jump on it and ride it.. while riding, two cylinders cut off and it runs like shit, as soon as i slow down, or come to a stop, the bike cuts itself out. i am thinking this is due to fucked spark plugs, but i had just bought new ones not long ago.... this kind of problem happened to me before with my old spark plugs. when i changed it, it was all fine.
the final problem is blue smoke on high revs...
and as for current problems that needs to be addressed are..... the jamming issue of the starter clutch when pressing the ignition switch. even though i replaced my broken starter clutch the problem is still there, it is more likely to be my battery, and maybe my stator? if that would affect the ignition at all, i dont know.
the other problem is the fact that my bike is now running like shit... ever since i remove the sprocket cover and reassembled it, the bike starter to run like a piece of crap. the bike starts off fine... runs for 5 mins. and revs drop and cut off... oor, if i start the bike quickly jump on it and ride it.. while riding, two cylinders cut off and it runs like shit, as soon as i slow down, or come to a stop, the bike cuts itself out. i am thinking this is due to fucked spark plugs, but i had just bought new ones not long ago.... this kind of problem happened to me before with my old spark plugs. when i changed it, it was all fine.
the final problem is blue smoke on high revs...
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Re: xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions
I am referring to the over-size bolt holding the ignition pickup in place adjacent to the starter clutch that you have mentioned in earlier posts.
You are pressing the "start" button when the jamming occurs, the ignition switch should already be in the ON position. Your battery cannot cause the starter clutch or starter motor to jam. A dud or discharged battery will not be able to turn over your engine properly, which you might be mis-inturpretted as the starter clutch/motor jamming. Your stator is the power source for charging the battery, nothing to do with starting the engine.
Why did you remove the sprocket cover?
Is the battery fully charged, does it pass a load test? Without a battery with sufficient energy, your engine will be hard to start and it can also run poorly. Does the bike charging system function correctly, what battery voltage do you measure when the engine is running at 5000 rpm with light ON.
Do you have good fuel flow from the tank when a vacuum is applied to the fuel tap. Poor fuel flow will cause the engine to run poorly and/or stop shortly after startup.
You are pressing the "start" button when the jamming occurs, the ignition switch should already be in the ON position. Your battery cannot cause the starter clutch or starter motor to jam. A dud or discharged battery will not be able to turn over your engine properly, which you might be mis-inturpretted as the starter clutch/motor jamming. Your stator is the power source for charging the battery, nothing to do with starting the engine.
Why did you remove the sprocket cover?
Is the battery fully charged, does it pass a load test? Without a battery with sufficient energy, your engine will be hard to start and it can also run poorly. Does the bike charging system function correctly, what battery voltage do you measure when the engine is running at 5000 rpm with light ON.
Do you have good fuel flow from the tank when a vacuum is applied to the fuel tap. Poor fuel flow will cause the engine to run poorly and/or stop shortly after startup.
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Re: xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions
xivlia wrote:one more thing when the choke is turn on while the bike has warmed up. the bikes revs drop almost instantly and cut out. i am guessing this is due to drowning. i will pop my carbs out and fix this richness issue.
Taking your above post into account, how long are you running it on the choke for? Once warm, take it off the choke, shouldn't be more than a minute or two before it can sustain its idle without. Of course it will cut out, the engines all happy and raring to go, and you're still depriving it of precious air.xivlia wrote:the other problem is the fact that my bike is now running like shit... ever since i remove the sprocket cover and reassembled it, the bike starter to run like a piece of crap. the bike starts off fine... runs for 5 mins. and revs drop and cut off... oor, if i start the bike quickly jump on it and ride it.. while riding, two cylinders cut off and it runs like shit, as soon as i slow down, or come to a stop, the bike cuts itself out. i am thinking this is due to fucked spark plugs, but i had just bought new ones not long ago.... this kind of problem happened to me before with my old spark plugs. when i changed it, it was all fine
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Re: xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions
Are you sure it wasn't a Deloreanand also the fact that i wrote off my r125 on a head on collision with a 2010 model Audi s4 in 2009

4 WHEELS MOVE THE BODY 2 WHEELS MOVE THE SOUL