1st trackday problems brakes gearbox

[otto]

well completed 1st trackday on friday (thanks to all advice received in my trackday post ) as predicted i am hooked but it appears i have a few problems with the bike first brakes are good but i feel they could be better whats the best route to go is a fully serviced standard setup up to the job with the right pads(which)or should i look to changing calipers/discs if so what 2nd i have a problem with 3rd gear on warm up lap not riding changing gear hard bike lurches in 3rd its not pulling smooth when changing hard its stays in gear for a split second then hits a neutral and i have to go to fourth (not good )any ideas or shuold i just find a 2nd hand box is a nc35 better anyone got either for sale cheap if new box i understand it can be done without taking topend off is this ok or should i tear it all down also running total loss how long should a battery last any other improvments i could make bike is trackday use only

[CMSMJ1]

Alright dude,

Can you edit that and stick a few commas,full stops and some returns to break it up?

Makes it far easier to read and can also edit it too.

Brakes - on an NC30 - are awesome. . What was wrong with them? Have you beld them recently? Makes a big difference.

Gears - check your technique - you using clutch? You using road or race shift? NC30 a better box for racing/track

battery - well..I got paranoid and always kept mine on a charger. I also used a piggy back to start it

[otto]

Sorry about grammar.

brakes were good but not awesome will bleed them and maybe get better pads but which.I was just wondering if theres a common/easy upgrade for track/race,it maybe mine just need a good overhaul

Gears, dont think its technique only problem with 3rd clutchless shifts race pattern

i have played with lever to see if that helps but no difference

on the warm up lap with low load it will go in 3rd but doesn't pull clean, under full load it will not stay in

Battery, yeah paranoid too,will carry on charging between sessions

piggyback thought about doing this how did you set this up, heavy duty cables what connectors ,

did you bypass on bike solenoid and use remote starter switch or just jumper cables


on a side note to cmsmj1 thanks for quick del on wheel and pump

[skinnydog0_0]

As CMSMJ1 says, bleed the brakes and the front master cylinder. I have also been advised that when you change pads to a different make you need to wet and dry the discs with a very fine grade paper to remove the surface film.

On the gear shift thing i would try changing the oil first and checking the old oil very very carefully for any metalic flakes or debris. i had similar issue with my 30 box, it would jump from 2nd into neutral when trying to get 3rd. i think it was the little dowel pin (part 34) that had become worn.

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-rvf400rt-nc3 ... ml#results


I prefer the 35 box myself as the first gear is shorter and it's faster off the line, but if your not doing racing starts i would stick with the 30 box.
I use the gixer rotor conversion rather than running total loss it's much better than standard and you keep the battery charged.