Electric testing

[CMSMJ1]

OKI is the std ignition isn't it?

@ monkey - if you want to nip to S8, southside of Sheff, 15 mins from J29 then you can have a use of my CDI..

[bikemonkey]

Yeah that's what was on the bike when I got it.

CMSMJ1, would love to take you up on that offer, got my mod2 on Monday!
Which means only problem is I don't know how far the bike will get before it dies :/

[magg]

CMSMJ1 appears to be correct, just had a look at mine and it is also OKI. Maybe your have a fault unit or one that has been "repaired"? If a replacement ignition unit has the same "problem" then there has be an issue with some part of the engine run/stop electrical system.

With a charged battery you should not have much trouble, you would need to be stuck idling for some time or do many engine starts to have a problem, would recommend no headlight though.

You also need to really measure the current drawn to confirm the ignition unit is the problem, might be a challenge by the side of the road.

[CMSMJ1]

No, I didn't have anything else turned on at the same time.

I had a look at the ignition unit and took some pictures, it says OKI electronics on the end of it :

Pretty sure the CDIs I've seen don't have english anti tamper stickers on them?

[magg]

Mine did not either but had numbers printed on one surface that included MR8 which is a notation in many OEM part numbers.

[CMSMJ1]

I've just checked the one on my mate's NC - it has the MR8 tags and is OKI imprinted. I've lost my one from my bike..I have an ignitech fitted and must have sold it!

[bikemonkey]

Cheers guys, seems its pointing towards being aftermarket, the alarm fitter thought so when he came.

Have hopefully sourced a CDI on here for a good price, and shall post back next week, when fingers crossed I'm on the road again

After what's going to be, fresh fuel, oil and coolant, and a good clean of the spark plugs!

By the way, whats the best coolant for the NC?

[bikemonkey]

Replacement CDI turned up today, put it on the bike and did the same tests as the last ones before.

Reading when ignition OFF = 0.01

Reading when ignition ON killswitch ON = 0.47


Much better than 5.28 or whatever it was :)

Again thanks for all your help magg! You were right!

[magg]

Glad to help. If you have a chance before you reassemble the bike check the battery voltage at 5000 rpm, as a final check on the charging system. Should be >13 volts and a good idea to use heat transfer compound between the rect/reg and the frame mount. Help get the heat away.

[bikemonkey]

Checked the battery at 5K revs, got 14.4 volts, so all good