Battery issues

[Dashaks]

Oh and BTW this all just gos to show what a shit clutch-starter i am hehehe

[magg]

An RVF (NC35) with the "lights always on" setup will give its battery a hard time , particularly with lots of stop/start/slow running. Your voltage readings confirm this, you can only expect raw battery voltage at idle as the output from the alternator is not enough to run the engine and the lights and charge the battery, while 13 volts or more at 5000 rpm indicates that the battery is being charged when the engine rpm is increased.

What type of running do you do, particularly on the last ride before the problem occurred. How old is the battery?

A VFR (NC30) does not run "lights always on" and thereby gives its battery an easier time.

[CMSMJ1]

13.17 at 5k revs is a pretty weak reading IMO It would take some long riding times to get a decent charge into that battery at those rates.

I'm rolling 14+ and get worried I am going to fry my rectifier (again) so I always run with lights on!

[magg]

CMSMJ1 what volts do you get when running 5000 rpm and lights on. This is Dashaks scenario. If 13 volts is too low then the charging system has a problem and a new battery will not be the solution.

Dashaks where in Sydney are you? A run the the Blue Mountains would be a great chance to charge the battery and I could offer my humble opinion on your problem.

[Dashaks]

The last run I did was just to work and back 15km return. Then it shit itself. I use it everyday which is why i thought something else other than the battery was fucked. The good thing I guess is that to voltage was still rising at 5000 so maybe after 10-15 mins of riding it'd hit optimum voltage output. I live in Granville btw :).

So do I keep the batt or if not MCA is telling me a dynomaster for $60 will sort me out. Any suggests???

[Neosophist]

Sounds like you may have a knakered / dying battery which has taken the reg/rec / genny with it.

Have you tested generator output yet/

Disconnect the plug from the genny and with AC voltage set measure pairs of the 3 yellow wires in the plug.

You should have at least 50V at 5000rpm.

If you call the wires A B and C, (any order will do)

Measure

A- B
B - C
A - C

this will test all combinations, report back with that.

[magg]

Is that 7km each way in stop start traffic, maybe too much slow running resulting in limited charging.

I can have a play around tomorrow with my NC30 and get some figures for different electrical loads and engine rpm.

If the battery started the bike without much trouble after charging, then it must have some life left in it and provided it is getting a good charge from the alternator it should keep going.

[CMSMJ1]

CMSMJ1 what volts do you get when running 5000 rpm and lights on. This is Dashaks scenario. If 13 volts is too low then the charging system has a problem and a new battery will not be the solution.

Dashaks where in Sydney are you? A run the the Blue Mountains would be a great chance to charge the battery and I could offer my humble opinion on your problem.

I'd tell you if my bike was not in a coma with big end failure... IIRC then it was never under 14 flat.

I had a spate of battery deaths and reg rec deaths and found I had a frazzled genny too... Have a pic too..must have posted it once or twice..

[Dashaks]

Sounds like you may have a knakered / dying battery which has taken the reg/rec / genny with it.

Have you tested generator output yet/

Disconnect the plug from the genny and with AC voltage set measure pairs of the 3 yellow wires in the plug.

You should have at least 50V at 5000rpm.

If you call the wires A B and C, (any order will do)

Measure

A- B
B - C
A - C

this will test all combinations, report back with that.

What makes u think I have a "genny" problem neo. I dnt mind checking the genny but have no idea what or where it is and also have no ideas in regards to the wires you're talking about.

Do I use the mutlimeter again??? Sorry for being a noob

[magg]

You will find the three yellow wires at the plug that connects to the rect/reg located under the seat on the left hand side of the frame. It is just reachable without removing the seat but easier to remove the seat, six screws, two tail/stop lamps, seat lock and then careful manipulation and some flexing of the seat section. You could try a resistance test between the yellow wires first, multimeter set to ohms range, should get readings of about 1 ohm between each pair. Also check resistance between any yellow wire and frame, set multimeter to Mohms reading should be infinity.