Post
by Jashdown » Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:33 am
I don't think it's such a good idea. Without the washer, the force won't be distributed evenly and will cause the thread to fail again, over time.
I showed it to my mechanic mate, and he said it looks as though the last person to tighten the nut, over-torqued it, which damaged the thread, and over time with the force from the clutch on it, caused the threads to fail and it was stripped.
That would explain why it failed in such a short space of time and why it was slipping and not able to full engage. I also believe that theory because when the nut was on the clutch and I hadn't touched it, I could move the entire clutch basket back and forwards about a mm, which I thought was abnormal.
So in the end, I've decided I'm going to pull the engine out of the bike, bring it around to his shop, and we are going to pull the sump off, split the crank case and change the input shaft for another one.
I have a question about that, the Haynes manual says I need to remove the entire cylinder head just to get to the transmission shaft, that seems a bit ridiculous, considering the input shaft is in the bottom of the engine. Shouldn't I only have to turn the engine upside down and remove the sump and split the crank case? Then the transmission shafts can be pulled straight out from there...