What would I need? Or how would I go about doing this conversion?
I tried searching but I couldn't find a thread that was dedicated to this type of thing. Unless my search was rather retarded.

Any and all comments will be appreciated.
Not strictly correct.amorti wrote:In general, Fi will give a more precise dosing of fuel/air at any given revs, at higher pressure, finer atomized. This means you will get better fueling, and more power.
On the V4, as noted above, it's notoriously difficult to get right, because of the limited space and also the difference in fuelling between front and rear cylinders.
Carbs are indeed more simple, but only when they already work. If you've ever tried to get a tuned bike to work well, you will understand that taking 30 minutes+ each time to change jets or 20+ to change or shim needles is a PITA compared to changing a few numbers in an Fi table.phil x wrote:Not strictly correct.amorti wrote:In general, Fi will give a more precise dosing of fuel/air at any given revs, at higher pressure, finer atomized. This means you will get better fueling, and more power.
On the V4, as noted above, it's notoriously difficult to get right, because of the limited space and also the difference in fuelling between front and rear cylinders.
Carbs have some advantages over FI, simplicity & the fact that air is cooler/denser from carbs (ever heard of 'Carb icing' on FI?) because of this carbs can produce more power than a basic FI system
True, electronics on FI can produce more accurate fuelling over a greater range of situations.
Phil
I dont think you can better the feel of a well set up bike running on carbs , i have rode and owned lots of different types of bikes both fi and carbs, modern fi bikes are alot better now than early systems, early fi bikes are snatchy and some are utter shite at low rpm a lot worse than any bike fitted with carbs !!. modern 8 injector fi systems are a lot better but it would cost a small fortune to build a system to equal the feel and performance.Carbs are indeed more simple, but only when they already work. If you've ever tried to get a tuned bike to work well, you will understand that taking 30 minutes+ each time to change jets or 20+ to change or shim needles is a PITA compared to changing a few numbers in an Fi table.
I don't think you understand what carb icing is. The fuel never really freezes, it just fails to atomise properly because of low temps.
Also, it's near-on impossible to get "real" ram-air working properly on a bike with carbs. As your airbox pressurises, it gets more air in. So do you tune for high revs in second gear where the airbox is at low pressure (runs lean in 6th gear) or tune for high revs in sixth gear, where you sling more and more fuel in to compensate for the high pressure air, leaving lower gears running rich. Not a problem for Fi, which will have an air pressure sensor in the airbox and automatically correct the A/F ratio.
Frankly, if you can afford it, Fi is a far superior system. But therein lies the problem.
I also like the feel of carbs, but then the only Fi bike I have owned was a 955i (first gen Fi!) Daytona. That was bloody awful under about 3k rpm.kevprojex wrote:I dont think you can better the feel of a well set up bike running on carbs , i have rode and owned lots of different types of bikes both fi and carbs, modern fi bikes are alot better now than early systems, early fi bikes are snatchy and some are utter shite at low rpm a lot worse than any bike fitted with carbs !!. modern 8 injector fi systems are a lot better but it would cost a small fortune to build a system to equal the feel and performance.
Its not impossible to get ram air to work , zx9r, zzr1100, r6(early) zx7r,zx6r etc plus many more race bikes nc30s nc35 etc fitted with ram air, you have to apply air pressure to the float bowl vent tubes to add air pressure above the fuel in the float bowl chamber to equal the pressure in the venturi or the fuel will not flow up the main jet and emulsion tube. speed or gear makes no difference to fueling
Carb icing is when the moisture in the air freezes not the fuel, it would have to drop to around -60 deg for fuel to freeze. Carb icing could happen at very small throttle openings on a very cold damp winter morning and thats about it , i have never had it happen me and have never heard it happening to anyone,every bike i have owned i have thrown the heating system away, once the engine is warmed up heat is tranfered to the carbs anyway.