still not idling right

[oldgreyandslow]

Almost there but not quite

Dave kindly cleaned my carbs properly, I have refitted them and now the rear pipes get hot, as does the front left, the front right however although warming up is noticeably less hot than the other 3.

Also the idle is still unsteady - ish, after reving at 5k it hung at 2k momentarily, I had to adjust the idle back, however now it drops below idle and returns.

Its getting better alright but not quite there

[arsey30]

Did the 2 fronts come up to equal temperature before I touched the carbs?

If so, then either pilot setting or balance is out, but I thought I got them pretty close.

I set all pilots at 2T and balanced the carbs with a 1.5 thou feeler gauge.
It seems that number 4 cylinder may now require tweeking, either pilot [turn out to richen it ?] or speeding up via balance screw.
Vacuum gauges will balance them spot on.

Dave.

[oldgreyandslow]

Did the 2 fronts come up to equal temperature before I touched the carbs?

If so, then either pilot setting or balance is out, but I thought I got them pretty close.

I set all pilots at 2T and balanced the carbs with a 1.5 thou feeler gauge.
It seems that number 4 cylinder may now require tweeking, either pilot [turn out to richen it ?] or speeding up via balance screw.
Vacuum gauges will balance them spot on.

Dave.

Confused!

Yes the two fronts did come up to equal temperature before

However #4 is now only warm even when run at 5 to 6k, I sprayed water on the pipes, on all but this one water fizzes off very quickly, this one takes a while to evaporate off.

I've swapped the plugs over on the front two cylinders, that has made no difference

I'm pretty sure the carbs are seated correctly, I may just take them off and reseat them again.

Don't have vacuum gauges any more, sold them when I sold my old fazer, I knew I should have kept them!

[oldgreyandslow]

Update:

Refitted carbs, still not quite right at idle but at 5k everything gets toasty

Clearly I need to balance them properly with vacuum gauges, however for now I'll settle for the slightly lumpy idle as its not killing anything.

By the way, refitting carbs is now a piece of p1$$

[arsey30]

You can borrow my vacuum gauges and angled geared screwdrivers if you want to, but I have found that checking with feeler gauges comes pretty close.

It may be that the pilots need adjusting, but that is very complex unless you are able to do it by ear.
Best speed/pick up/even running.

Dave.

[oldgreyandslow]

Thanks for your help Dave, I think I will try running it as it is now and see how it goes, if it looks like I will need to balance them I'll take you up on the offer to borrow the gauges etc.

[arsey30]

Run the engine on full choke for a short time and check the ex temps.
Most likely they all will be correct, unless there is an ingition fault, which I doubt.

[Ignore any slight difference between front and rear pairs as wear in the choke rod link bar joints can prevent the rear plungers from fully opening by a very small amount, but I set the rear clevis to take up much of the slack]

With engine warm, choke off, turn out number 4 pilot screw slowly up to extra 1/2t to see if engine note/even ness/pickup improves.

Dave.

[oldgreyandslow]

Thanks Dave

I'll give that a go later in the week, unfortunately work is getting in the way of bike fettling.

[oldgreyandslow]

Run the engine on full choke for a short time and check the ex temps.
Most likely they all will be correct, unless there is an ingition fault, which I doubt.

[Ignore any slight difference between front and rear pairs as wear in the choke rod link bar joints can prevent the rear plungers from fully opening by a very small amount, but I set the rear clevis to take up much of the slack]

With engine warm, choke off, turn out number 4 pilot screw slowly up to extra 1/2t to see if engine note/even ness/pickup improves.

Dave.

Choke on it runs at around 5k and all get hot, fronts quicker than rears

Engine warm initially turned #4 idle out less than 1/4 turn, blipped throttle returned to less than idle before rising again. Not what I expoected, turned back in the same 1/4 turn, slightly better, turned back out by half a turn this time, idle dropped a bit, reset to just under 1500 #4 pipe not as warm again but blip throttle and it returns to idle fine.

Left it to cool a bit started without choke and it idled at less than 1400, not smooth either, better when warm though.

I'm wondering if all this faffing around running not running etc may have damaged the plugs, the spark did look weak from the plugs when I took them out, so I've ordered some new ones which I'll try just in case they are the cause.

Its very close to being right, and is certainly ride-able, maybe just a change of plugs and a good run will sort it out

[arsey30]

I though number 4 was weak, but if it is worse turning the screw out, then try turning in 1/4 to 1/2T.

I still don't suspect plugs or ignition, does is rev up OK.

I have found some engines stumble when the revs return, but if it does not stall, it is seldom a problem on the road, and pickup is fine.


Dave.