NC35 starts, runs, stutters to halt and then repeats...

[0.S]

I changed the fuel line from the tank to the ‘splitter’ and this was very worn/soft/pliable indeed.
I then changed the fuel tank breather & drain hoses as both of these were worse for wear with cracks visible.

Don't forget to check the fuel tap vacuum line.

Good chance this is your problem if the hoses above were worn.

Thanks again..
Changed the vacuum line too and took it for a short steady ride of about 25 miles and it didn’t cut out.
Plan a longer/faster ride once it warms up later today – fingers crossed.

[0.S]

Update time once more…

Took the bike out yesterday for a few hours and covered over 300km.
It was a fast ride it was great fun to see a bike go off the clock as I was riding with an R1.
Anyway, all was going great until the bike suddenly started to ‘lose power’ and I worked down the gears until the bike stopped.

I took a short break of about 5 mins, tried to start it and it fired up but wouldn’t rev past 4/6k but I was able to ride it – I was about 4 miles from home.
It coughed and spluttered all the way home.

Once home, I parked the bike and connected the battery charger and was surprised to see that it only registered a few lights on the ctek charger.

Advice is welcome once again

Cheers

[skinnydog0_0]

Sounds like your genny may be fecked. Or your battery has been cooked by a faulty reg/rec . What sort of charge do you get when the bike is running?

[0.S]

Sounds like your genny may be fecked. Or your battery has been cooked by a faulty reg/rec . What sort of charge do you get when the bike is running?

Im getting high 13/low 14 volts when the engine is running at 5/6k.
I do have a spare reg/rec and another battery knocking around, is this my next step?

[0.S]

Well, I'm still none the wiser as I have changed all the fuel/breather lines along with the rectifier as I had one knocking about.
I’ve taken the fuel tap apart and that appears to fine and working ok.

The symptoms are more or the less the same, the bike starts very easily and is left to run/warm up for about 7 / 8 minutes and runs/revs without any problems.
When I put it into gear and pull off, it simply dies after a few yards and this is between 4 or 5 yards or up to 20 yards.
It wont start up again even though it sounds like its ‘just about to’ though.
Bike is left overnight and I'm back to square one…

The summer is slowly slipping away here in Sweden and Im dieing to get out and about on this bike

[arsey30]

I have the same problem on a friend's 30, and I think it is the tap diaphragm.

The tap opens with a vacuum but not full flow.
I reversed the small fuel diaphragm [to disable the vacuum operation] and now get a full flow and it engine seems to run OK, so we have ordered a new diaphragm, even though nothing appears wrong with the old one.

I can't find anything else wrong.

Dave.

[0.S]

Thanks for the tip and I have a modified fuel tap and will try that.
Its been driving me nuts, it really has…

[0.S]

Tank was swapped and same thing happened, it started then cut out after a short while.(This was with a modified fuel tap)

So, I recheck all the fuel/breather lines and I notice that the main fuel line has a bit of play in it and slightly bends/kinks when the tank is lowered into place.

So, I cut about an inch off (25.4mm for our younger reader) and connected it all back up followed by a short ride which was followed by an hour ride.
Last night I did 200k on it without a hitch and even though I feel a bit daft for not noticing this, I'm happy enough to pass it on in a hope it helps someone else.

From what I can gather, the new, thick rigid fuel line was getting hot when the engine was running and forming a seal where it was kinked and opening back up when it cooled down!

[CMSMJ1]

Glad to hear it was sorted...

Always sucks to find it was the easy things!

[Concrete Jungle]

Sounds like the problem my bike is having, possibly saved me from having to ask some numpty questions and tear out what remains of my hair.