NC30 track bike not been used in 8-10yrs, where to start?
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- 28hodge
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NC30 track bike not been used in 8-10yrs, where to start?
Hi
new to VFR's but been looking for a trackbike for a bit after a few near do's on a cbr600rr road bike.
Picked up a 92vfr track bike of ebay for £450, having spoke to the guy it was built to race in the EMRA club and apparently did some endurance event/champs that they ran in the mid to late 90's i'd guess, he bought it and used it a couple of times then stored it in his garage for the next 8-10yrs.
The bike has Maxton internals but is pretty standard tune by all accounts, im guessing just fully derestrited so somewhere between 60 – 64bhp.
The bike has been stood for at least 8 years, when I picked it up on Sunday I could hardly push the bike, so im guessing the calipers have seized up and everything is dry, as is to be expected.
Anyway bought a Haynes manual and going to get stuck into it these next few weeks.
Heres what im thinking needs doing, if im missing anything please feel free to recommend things that you think I need to do.
Pull the fairings off and give it all a clean to get rid of all the shit and dust etc.
Carbs off, Read Cammo’s guide and clean, they have sat with fuel in them for 8 years so they should be a real treat!!
Valve clearances check and see, if slack think I’ll have the heads off and cams out to check the journals and lobes for any discolouration or pitting, and basically put some oil around the top of the engine for when it first fires up.
Then rebuild calipers and service the forks and see whats actually inside them, or will I not be able to tell??
Oil and filter, battery, wheel bearings, headstock bearings regrease, rear linkage re grease. Flush rads.
Can only do this at weekends as I work away from home they can prob take the calipers with me and do dis assemble/clean whilst im away.
new to VFR's but been looking for a trackbike for a bit after a few near do's on a cbr600rr road bike.
Picked up a 92vfr track bike of ebay for £450, having spoke to the guy it was built to race in the EMRA club and apparently did some endurance event/champs that they ran in the mid to late 90's i'd guess, he bought it and used it a couple of times then stored it in his garage for the next 8-10yrs.
The bike has Maxton internals but is pretty standard tune by all accounts, im guessing just fully derestrited so somewhere between 60 – 64bhp.
The bike has been stood for at least 8 years, when I picked it up on Sunday I could hardly push the bike, so im guessing the calipers have seized up and everything is dry, as is to be expected.
Anyway bought a Haynes manual and going to get stuck into it these next few weeks.
Heres what im thinking needs doing, if im missing anything please feel free to recommend things that you think I need to do.
Pull the fairings off and give it all a clean to get rid of all the shit and dust etc.
Carbs off, Read Cammo’s guide and clean, they have sat with fuel in them for 8 years so they should be a real treat!!
Valve clearances check and see, if slack think I’ll have the heads off and cams out to check the journals and lobes for any discolouration or pitting, and basically put some oil around the top of the engine for when it first fires up.
Then rebuild calipers and service the forks and see whats actually inside them, or will I not be able to tell??
Oil and filter, battery, wheel bearings, headstock bearings regrease, rear linkage re grease. Flush rads.
Can only do this at weekends as I work away from home they can prob take the calipers with me and do dis assemble/clean whilst im away.
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Re: NC30 track bike not been used in 8-10yrs, where to start
Id say thats pretty much covered it bud! getting it MOT able would be next on the cards!
- 28hodge
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Re: NC30 track bike not been used in 8-10yrs, where to start
I wasnt gonna bother getting an MOT on it, its got no v5, and i have no intention in making it a road bike, its gonna stay as a trackbike.
Or do you think i should have it put through an mot, it will fail i know due to light etc, but then at least i know it is road worth mechanically,if that makes sense?
Or do you think i should have it put through an mot, it will fail i know due to light etc, but then at least i know it is road worth mechanically,if that makes sense?
- Cammo
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Re: NC30 track bike not been used in 8-10yrs, where to start
Sounds like a good plan.
This crud can be removed pretty well by ultrasonic cleaning, but it might be best to see how they perform before deciding to do this. The carbs will usually need to be split for ultrasonic cleaning, no biggie but extra hassle that you may not need.
It can be a real pain if fuel was left in them. Most removable parts can be cleaned up fine (or replaced) but be aware that depending on how huch fuel residue is left on everything, that it can block up critical passages etc that you can't get to.28hodge wrote:Carbs off, Read Cammo’s guide and clean, they have sat with fuel in them for 8 years so they should be a real treat!!
This crud can be removed pretty well by ultrasonic cleaning, but it might be best to see how they perform before deciding to do this. The carbs will usually need to be split for ultrasonic cleaning, no biggie but extra hassle that you may not need.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
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Re: NC30 track bike not been used in 8-10yrs, where to start
in the midst of doing the same to a recent track bike purchase as the guys say you seem to have everthing covered plus maybe replace fork seals brake lines if original rubber ones and fresh tyres then your good to go.
- Martin
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Re: NC30 track bike not been used in 8-10yrs, where to start
Regardless of what suspension you actually have if it's the bike that I think you have you got an absolute bargain there. That Micron full system is probably more rare than the genuine HRC system that it's a copy of.
Too spensiff!!!
- 28hodge
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Re: NC30 track bike not been used in 8-10yrs, where to start

Right lets see if that pic works, this is the bike, tho not my pics but the pics from Ebay.

And heres the micron that Martin is on about.
Martin if you know some more about this bike then please can you give me any info that you have. When i picked it up the owner was away working in France, so i took it off his mate who basically just opened up his garage for me. Ive spoke to the owner, a guy called Jez on the phone and he told me the bits that i mentioned above.
Last edited by 28hodge on Thu Jun 30, 2011 11:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
- 28hodge
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- Joined: Tue May 17, 2011 4:26 pm
- Bike owned: nc30 (track) Yam YZ250 (MX)2st
- Location: Kendal, Cumbria, Northwest
Re: NC30 track bike not been used in 8-10yrs, where to start
Get in, photos working!
Davethetrucker, as you can see im missing a rear tyre, so yeah fresh rubber all round, and yep its got a leaking fork seal so they willbe replaced during the servicing of the forks. full braided lines should be ok tho wont they?
wasnt planning on changing them just service the calipers and then fresh fluid.
Thanks
28Hodge
Davethetrucker, as you can see im missing a rear tyre, so yeah fresh rubber all round, and yep its got a leaking fork seal so they willbe replaced during the servicing of the forks. full braided lines should be ok tho wont they?
wasnt planning on changing them just service the calipers and then fresh fluid.
Thanks
28Hodge
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Re: NC30 track bike not been used in 8-10yrs, where to start
I had a bike that had been standing much the same...
I think you've covererd most of it.
Heres what I did just incase theres something I did you didn't.
The valves that had been left open had developed surface rust due to condensation and damp, you could see the blow-by clearly on the valves so took them all out, cleaned em up and lapped em in, sorted that out.
Replace all fluid and coolant, Gave the engine a good flush out with Parafin gun while i'd got it apart, purge out any crap oil. Also while it was apart inspect the clutch plates and freed them off (were stuck together!)
Coolant system was flushed six ways from Sunday with a running hosepipe and the waterpump checked for its condition.
Fork oil and brake fluid drained, forks flushed with parafin and seals replaced.
New Engine Oil / Filter
Coolant Mix
Fork Oil
Brake Fluid - Braided hoses should be ok
Calipers - I freed the pistons off but ended up replacing all the seals for peace of mind.
Check swingarm / headstock / rear-hub bearings. - These were all fine but getting really dry... I flushed them clean with parafin, allowed them to fully dry and lubed them up with brand new grease.. this is an important one and a lot of peopel forget it, if you dont' keep it greased the bearings will die and you'll need new ones.
New tyres front / rear... Honda reccomend new tyres after 6 years regardless of wear and for a bike it's nice to have rubber you can trust.
Carbs striped cleaned (ultrasonic) and setup properly (wrong jets everywhere)
New battery was a must... the old battery even if it takes a charge will be way past its best.. this will put strain on the charging system if its present, which is a bad thing as it burns out the reg/rec and genny... fortuantly new batteries are quite cheap.... keep it topped off with an optimate if not used for more than 2 weeks.
Should be good to go then!
I've always wondered about track bikes with no V5.. does it still have a VIN number on the head-stock?
Don't know how to go with these as if it's reported stolen then technically you dont' own it :S i'd ask some of the more experienced track-bike owners how they get on.. not likely it'll be checked anytime but still
I think you've covererd most of it.
Heres what I did just incase theres something I did you didn't.
The valves that had been left open had developed surface rust due to condensation and damp, you could see the blow-by clearly on the valves so took them all out, cleaned em up and lapped em in, sorted that out.
Replace all fluid and coolant, Gave the engine a good flush out with Parafin gun while i'd got it apart, purge out any crap oil. Also while it was apart inspect the clutch plates and freed them off (were stuck together!)
Coolant system was flushed six ways from Sunday with a running hosepipe and the waterpump checked for its condition.
Fork oil and brake fluid drained, forks flushed with parafin and seals replaced.
New Engine Oil / Filter
Coolant Mix
Fork Oil
Brake Fluid - Braided hoses should be ok
Calipers - I freed the pistons off but ended up replacing all the seals for peace of mind.
Check swingarm / headstock / rear-hub bearings. - These were all fine but getting really dry... I flushed them clean with parafin, allowed them to fully dry and lubed them up with brand new grease.. this is an important one and a lot of peopel forget it, if you dont' keep it greased the bearings will die and you'll need new ones.
New tyres front / rear... Honda reccomend new tyres after 6 years regardless of wear and for a bike it's nice to have rubber you can trust.
Carbs striped cleaned (ultrasonic) and setup properly (wrong jets everywhere)
New battery was a must... the old battery even if it takes a charge will be way past its best.. this will put strain on the charging system if its present, which is a bad thing as it burns out the reg/rec and genny... fortuantly new batteries are quite cheap.... keep it topped off with an optimate if not used for more than 2 weeks.
Should be good to go then!
I've always wondered about track bikes with no V5.. does it still have a VIN number on the head-stock?
Don't know how to go with these as if it's reported stolen then technically you dont' own it :S i'd ask some of the more experienced track-bike owners how they get on.. not likely it'll be checked anytime but still
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
- Drunkn Munky
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Re: NC30 track bike not been used in 8-10yrs, where to start
Nice buy that, as said that micron is nearly worth what you paid for the bike. I dont think ive ever seen one for sale.