Cylinder Heads - Clean and Polish

[porndoguk]

right,

Cylinder heads have arrived, ive re tapped/ re-threaded all holes cleaned all the crud out etc,
ran a 5.5mm drill through the water drain hole for the 4 spark plugs.

my plan was to get the much hyped ported and polishing done, until i found out the prices!

spoke to Graeme France today, i wasnt sure what price i was expecting tbh, but he quoted me £600 a head!
and he said for a P&P youd need to be running high spec to justify the price which is right i guess,

well ive googled and it seems its the porting thats the expensive and dangerous (in terms of the DIY side) and the polishing is the after part, that stops the carbon build up and alows the gasses to flow smoothly, ive learnt that the PORTING is when the metal is drastically removed to make a more DIRECTIONAL flow of air etc.

i got the dremel out with the wire brush attachment and some carb cleaner and removed 80% of the carbon build up in the outlet hole, i need to get a valve spring compressor and get the valves out so i can do a proper clean, ive got some REALLY fine W&D dry and gave the outlet a gentle rub then fitted the buffing wheel to the dremmel and got a mirror shine, ive also see that polishing the combustion of the cylinder head is another goody to do,

now as ive said im NOT going to grind any of the metal away as this is the bit that can be easily fucked up,

also im not going to touch the inlet side either as polishing the inlet causes fueling problems, (condensation/puddling) causing the bike to run lean,

im also going to get some grinding paste for the valve seats but whats the craic with that, i will be taking the valves and removing the carbon build up, on the valve stem and the valve seat, but once i have this all cleaned is this when i need to use the grinding paste?

whats peoples thoughts i know this is something that needs to be done carefully and that is what im doing, and why i am NOT porting and only polishing, reasearch is the key, and im not using any tools for W&D thats by index finger only, and then the dremmel for the polish only,

Rick

[reverse cylinder jim]

Grinding paste is for lapping in the valves once you have cleaned them up, it gets rid of the pitting on the seating edge where the valve seats into the head.
Im interested in the term "Puddling" you have used, please can you eleborate on this for me.

[porndoguk]

Grinding paste is for lapping in the valves once you have cleaned them up, it gets rid of the pitting on the seating edge where the valve seats into the head.
Im interested in the term "Puddling" you have used, please can you eleborate on this for me.

well from what ive learnt IF you polish the inlet side of the heads the Flow of Air with Fuel gets REALLY cold, and when it hits the warm engine it condensates and STICKS to the inlet wall rather than the rough surface that tumbles and atomises the particles,

i gather thats what the puddling term means ive got these fancy things from several sites, i mean when researching you dont go with the first answer you read the same thing 10 times from 10 different people and then make your best conclusion.

so i wont be touching the inlet.

hope that makes sence?

[80sman]

It's better to leave the inlets a little rough to induce a little turbulence into the laminer airflow of the inducted mix.

This insures the fuel stays suspended in the fuel / air mix. The theory is that too smooth and the fuel can be flung out of the mixture and can cause carbon deposits and hot spots...... basically uneven burn.

The truth of it is another matter, there's some problems with the theory in some ways, however I've seen lots of engine porters leave shot blast finish on the inlets, and a mirror finish on the exhaust......

I've seen a inlet from an injector where someone put dimples of swirls down through the inlet....... they thought it was better.... personally I'm not that brave, think it takes years of practice, some good maths and hours at a flow bench.

Hope this helps anyhow.

[porndoguk]

It's better to leave the inlets a little rough to induce a little turbulence into the laminer airflow of the inducted mix.

This insures the fuel stays suspended in the fuel / air mix. The theory is that too smooth and the fuel can be flung out of the mixture and can cause carbon deposits and hot spots...... basically uneven burn.

The truth of it is another matter, there's some problems with the theory in some ways, however I've seen lots of engine porters leave shot blast finish on the inlets, and a mirror finish on the exhaust......

I've seen a inlet from an injector where someone put dimples of swirls down through the inlet....... they thought it was better.... personally I'm not that brave, think it takes years of practice, some good maths and hours at a flow bench.

Hope this helps anyhow.

yeah im not brave enough to do anything drastic, i dont think there will be a problem polishing the exhaust outlets.

thanks buddy

[reverse cylinder jim]

Grinding paste is for lapping in the valves once you have cleaned them up, it gets rid of the pitting on the seating edge where the valve seats into the head.
Im interested in the term "Puddling" you have used, please can you eleborate on this for me.

well from what ive learnt IF you polish the inlet side of the heads the Flow of Air with Fuel gets REALLY cold, and when it hits the warm engine it condensates and STICKS to the inlet wall rather than the rough surface that tumbles and atomises the particles,

i gather thats what the puddling term means ive got these fancy things from several sites, i mean when researching you dont go with the first answer you read the same thing 10 times from 10 different people and then make your best conclusion.

so i wont be touching the inlet.

hope that makes sence?

Thankyou for that, yeah makes sense. Will be the reason why ive had to up the jetting on mine after my head swap.

[porndoguk]

what jets you running now jim?

i dropped down to 115 x 118 and rick o needles and seems better flat spot still ther but not as noticible,
only when down gearing and i go to crack the throttle back on to accellerate but through the gears its fine, or when chundling along where its most important,

i plan to get a new full tyga with a longer carbon can, the noise is doing my head in on the short stainless one, i want something quieter,

plus that standard honda rear manifold you know the bendy bit before the yamamoto joins onto it loses power.

im not after power as such just want the bike to run more efficiently, which the polishing will help,

[reverse cylinder jim]

Sorry i should have said "having" to up the jetting as ive not decided on what sizes to run yet as the fresh heads have really made the bike feel more alive (but cant run it like this due to it being abit too lean for my liking) but i fear some of this will be lost if i up the fueling too much. Will try 118 front and 120 rears and see how it goes.
NC's seem to like longer cans, think ive heard you mention yours is about 110 db! Not surprised your thinking of a change.

[porndoguk]

Sorry i should have said "having" to up the jetting as ive not decided on what sizes to run yet as the fresh heads have really made the bike feel more alive (but cant run it like this due to it being abit too lean for my liking) but i fear some of this will be lost if i up the fueling too much. Will try 118 front and 120 rears and see how it goes.
NC's seem to like longer cans, think ive heard you mention yours is about 110 db! Not surprised your thinking of a change.

Correct! i have a Scorpion dB killer which seems to drop the Level the most, but i need to test it really,

Mot is due soon and i think this is stupid loud! its a bit gimmicky which has run its course with me,

well when i fit the tyga system etc ill up jet again to 118F 120R again and try that, as thats what i used to run and it ran well allbeit RICH!

but the new exhaust and polished heads may help that bit.

trial and error i guess.

[CMSMJ1]

mailed you Ricky