NC30 radiator layout

[abrmoto]

The "HRC" Mod does not work, belive me I have raced RVF's and NC's for 10 years no and have both on the road as well.
Yes in theiory it should work, but in practice it does not, if it did dont you think Honda would have made the RVF's like this??
Only way to cool them is to beef up you rads, but this is not cheap.

[Keysie]

There was a mod on the old forum where you could fit a switch to turn the fan on / off when you want that would maybe cool it down if you can switch it on as soon as you hit traffic

[Ma77]

ok cleaning the bottom one was a failure...i tried gunk and a variety of other stuff but it did not work so i spent hours poking it with a small screwdriver and kinda sorted it......
The top rad is now having 4 pc fans fitted to it which although are not as powerfull and the bottom fan still feel as if they move enough air to make a difference...
I will also be fitting an illuminated over ride switch so it lights when the fans are on ( to remind me i left them on and so i know when they have cut in) which should help in traffic as i think the fan starts only when the temp is really high.

Thanks for all the help

Matt

[fastdruid]

FWIW the fan only does cut in when the temp is high, can't recall the setting but it's around 100degrees[1].

If you use one of the piggy back spade connectors at the fan switch connected through a switch to an earth then you can turn the fan on/off manally, it'll only run while the ign is on and if you *do* forget it'll still cut in automatically.

Druid

[1] 104degrees springs to mind for some reason but that may be my SV's

[Spotswood]

I run Cool-Aide by Maxima from the US in my race bike rads and have never had a problem but its not like I am waiting at lights or stuck in traffic on the track :D

[Ma77]

That wiring situation is how it will be (wont work with out ignition on).
I was going to make the fans cut in earlier by connecting a resistor in parallel with the temp sensor untill i found it was a switch not a sensor....so i cant make it cut in earlier.

The four fans on the top rad seam to be moving some air through the rad...not quite as much as the big lower fan but not far off. Just needs to be wired in and filled with coolant.

I added a mesh to the bottom rad which should hopefully block instead of the rad as it will be a lot easier to clean or a lot cheaper to replace.

[royster81]

If you use one of the piggy back spade connectors at the fan switch...

remind me again which one is the fan switch....please

[lange]

The one on the left side of the lower rad.

[CRM]

Done this on the RC30, simply attach a dual outlet spade connector to the switch on the radiator, put the oe connector back on and a wire from the extra spade of the terminal to earth via a switch, i used a spare honda kill switch to make the fan kick in / off

In essence all you are doing is adding a wire from the fan switch on the rad to earth, if you run a bit of wire trap it between the rad sensor to earth the fan will come on, so just put a switch inbetween

[Ma77]

ok with the rads cleaned it makes such a difference....the fans seam to cut in just before the red on the temp gauge, is this a bit high or not?

when the fans do cut in the temp drops so quickly which is what i wanted....quite impresseve for simple computer fans and only an extra 1/2 amp draw.