Any parts impossible to get?

[Worther]

Hi all,

I'm new here and am looking to purchase a NC30 or preferably a NC35 real soon. My question is when inspecting prospective purchases are there any parts that are near impossible to find?

I know it sounds a bit silly, but with these bikes not getting any younger (none of us are...) and they're imports...I was wondering what should I really pay attention to?

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Worther

[BillingCBR]

almost anything can be found if you look hard enough and don't mind second hand. Quite a few bits are NLA new from honda though, mostly body panels, screens etc

[domski1]

There is a few people who specalise in parts for nc30/35 so most parts are available but can be pricy, I have recently bought a roughish nc35 so have had quite a few parts to find, one of my most expensive items have been the top and bottom radiators, so that's something to look out for. Most of my parts were sourced through eBay and on here.

[Neosophist]

Most parts can be brought. I wouldnt worry about unobtanium yet.

Not sure if there is an official buyers guide on here.

However, here are some pointers.

Apart from the obvious (MOT / Tax / HPI / History tally with the bike)

- Have a chat with the owner, find out why they are selling it, how much they know about the bike, if there an enthusiast it is more likely the bike has been treated well.

- Is it original? A lot of people favour the tyga kit / aftermarket parts but good condition original spec bikes command a premium and are a lot more likely to hold their value in the future, fairings should be double checked, aftermarket replicas are available from China but not quite upto Honda spec.

- Does it start and warm up / idle ok? Carbs can be a bit of wizardary to those unfamiliar with the bike and they are often set-up wrongly, if you ride it (which I suggest) after is it warm give it a blast through the revs in 3rd gear. The electriclal system is prone to dying, especially the reg-rec, if theres any sign of a battery charger near the bike (turn up 10 minutes early) or battery boiling over a new charging system might be in order 150.00gbp to replace the lot.

-These engines are bulletproof when looked after well, they should be nice and quiet and very smooth, a tappy top-end is a sign of neglect as the valve clearances need doing.. if you have a syncopated uneven tapping this is a sign of a worn camshaft, very unusual but a sign of oil starvation to the top end (could have been wheelied a lot!)

-A flat spot at 6-7.5k is normal and sign of original set-up carbs, if it goes well besides or all together then all is well. If it runs like crap be prepared to strip and over-haul the carbs (plenty of advice on here on how to do that but you can use it as bartaring leverge)

-Spark plugs are expensive as they are tiny 8mm jobbies so it makes a service including oil and air-filter the best part of 90.00gbp

-Check the wheel bearings (you shouldnt be able to feel any play when rocking the wheel your hands at 12 / 6 o-clock and 9 - 3 oclock) the rear-bearing are expensive at 65.00gbp

-Look at the rear wheel, you adjust the chain by a castellated adjuster, if it has been hammered with a screw-driver this will be all chipped away and makes it difficult to adjust the chain

So to sum up, a very reliable bike with exceptional build quality barring the charging system, any odd noises or running difficulties mean something is a miss, pulling through the revs i wouldnt worry too much about as the carbs can be difficult to set up but if you know the right people \ places (here) they are a doddle.

Any sign of aftermarket fairings are a usualy indicator of the bike being dropped or crashed, so make sure everything is straight and lines up.

-Check the brakes work well during your test ride, the front should be really sharp if there in good condition, the back on the 30/35 is often very weak and no cause for major concern.


Take things into account when evaluating how much you want to spend.. for example a bike might seem good value at 800.00

However,

Tyres - BT090 - 200.00
Service - Oil / O-Filter / A-Filter / Plugs - 90.00
Regulator Failure - Reg/Rec / Generator / Battery - 130.00
Chain & Sprockets - 85.00

Your already upto 1350.00 before you have a good bike.

Don't let any of this put you off, there are plenty out there that are in good condition, but as you probably know, they are getting on and a lot of people do have them as a first bike big.. fit a load of bling and run it into the ground.. If you are unsure get some picture and post the link here and people can give you their honest opinion.

Persevere and youll get a fantastic bike :)

[uber pikey]

I am struggling to get hold of the flux capaciter, if you find one let me know

[Worther]

A big thanks to all who have read and replied to this topic, everyone on this forum seem really helpful and I appreciate it. You have given me some sound advice and I will bear all this in mind when viewing potential bikes.

Thanks again,

Worther

[CRM]

as has been said really, condition of the bikes for sale over the last 5 years has dropped quite a bit.
anything sub 1k is likely to need alot of work and be seen as a project.
a 2k vfr i would expect to be close to original and in good useable condition ready to ride and enjoy. not much more for the RVF too, say around 500 quid.
you may see bikes for sale at daft prices and people can try and charge what they like for them - however unless someone buys them, then thats not showing what they are actually worth.

buy on condition over mileage, original plastics are important if you want a stock bike to retains anything like its value. some RVF panels are available but not all. not much left for the NC30 panel wise (esp in the iconic RWB scheme - i took care of that lol) aftermarket pipes are ok but try and get the original.

so some common sense applies really, if you get a good gut feel about the owner, its a nice clean bike and ready to ride away at a fair price then buy it.
if the seller is young, the bikes cheap, has a cheap aftermarket paintjob or miss matched panels, then sounds like a project.

Also i will say after owning RVF's and many many NC30's dont pay over the odds for a RVF, they look pretty but my opinion (and same as the vast majority here who have owned a few of both) say a good NC30 is the better bike like for like.