Front End

Post by **carpman** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:15 pm

hiya All

I'm hoping you can advise me on a few of things that are driving me mad ( decisions decisions )
I'm riding an imported 1990 nc30 (unsure which model)

A bit of background info about a brake issue i'm having .....
" i have noticed that 1 brake disk is very hot to the touch and the other i can hold after a 15 minute Hard-ish ride home from work , i now know its nothing to do with my pads as i have just replaced these and its still the same ... So i conclude that there is a brake caliper problem , the other day i was zipping along quite nicely when a car started to pull out in front i hit front brakes fairly hard to slow down and got a bit of a tank slapper

(only once each way but i did think here it comes needless to say i didn't come off )

Here comes the questions

Would having a brake bias problem on the front end have caused the tank slapper ?

I want to get a new chain and sprockets which sizes are best ( mostly used for comuting with occasional rides out not really worried about top end ,there is a 40t on there at the mo dont know wot size is on the front is ) ?

I'm about to replace the seals on my forks as 1 of the is leaking very slightly is it worth getting Rick Olivers upgrade and do the hole lot while there off ( would a fork prob have contributed to the above tank slap )?

thats it

i'm thinking along the lines of replacing all brake piston seals and cleaning and hope this sorts out the bias problem ( i got new braided lines when i bought her a year ago)

cheers Dan

hardnutdvd · Post by **hardnutdvd** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:34 pm

chain and sprockets are:
108 link 15/40 as standard...

I'm not sure if the tank slapper would have caused the disc problem.. obviously it is gettin hot because of the pad rubbing but would the disc warp from a tank slapper? im sure someone will either confirm it could or couldn't..
it may be that the piston has not returned into the bore as well as it should, possibly due to corrosion or crap on it. giving them a strip down and proper clean up wont hurt one bit.

everyone will say Rick O's upgrade kit is well worth it

Post by **carpman** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:58 pm

hardnutdvd wrote: I'm not sure if the tank slapper would have caused the disc problem..

Cheers for info Hardnut but i dont think that the tank slapper has caused a brake problem ......

i think the brake ( bias ) problem may have caused the tank slap by snatching on one disc before the other is this possible

hardnutdvd · Post by **hardnutdvd** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 10:13 pm

can you get the front end up and unbolt the good caliper? this would give you an indication of how badly or if the other is binding.
you could unbolt the 'bad' caliper and remove the pads. pump the lever a few times to expose more of the piston and try to give them a clean in situ. can be a pain to push back in but might work

edited.. cos i didnt read your reply properly and just realised the brake prob was before the tank slap

time for bed me thinks,, before i start gettin slated for typing in my sleep

Post by **skinnydog0_0** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 10:14 pm

I think that a caliper not working could make it feel like it's pulling to one side, but not sure if it would make it tank slap. I think it may be something wrong with the fork on one side, lack of fluid or bent stanchion perhaps. There are lots of older bikes and moto x bikes that only have a single front disc and they dont pull/tank slap.

Post by **CMSMJ1** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:03 pm

skinnydog0_0 wrote:I think that a caliper not working could make it feel like it's pulling to one side, but not sure if it would make it tank slap. I think it may be something wrong with the fork on one side, lack of fluid or bent stanchion perhaps. There are lots of older bikes and moto x bikes that only have a single front disc and they dont pull/tank slap.

Agree with the Skinny hound..

These bikes don;t really slap unless very badly provoked. Your little wobble is nothing to worry about..you need to work on your braking

Having a set of brakes that are binding, apart from being a total and utter ballache, is very dangerous. The fluid in the caliper can boil and leave you with no the lever back to the bars.

Ask me how I know.. Go on, ask me...

SO, get that caliper off, get the pads out and see how shitty it is on the pistons. Try and clean them as much as you can and then push them back in. If you are lucky, this will be OK and you;ll find the bike likes you for taking the time to sort it out.

If you are unlucky..then you;ll need some seals and to service the brakes properly.

ref C&S - 15/40 is standard and ideal for commuting. For playing out, 14/40 or 15/43 is great...

1989 NC30s - K models are the only different bikes - no damping adjust on forks and no remote res on shock. All other models have rebound adjust and remote res.

Some bikes, for non Jap Market, have different carbs, oil coolers, lights and mirrors etc etc..

98% of the bikes are interchangeable.

Post by **carpman** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:10 pm

ref C&S - 15/40 is standard and ideal for commuting. For playing out, 14/40 or 15/43 is great...

1989 NC30s - K models are the only different bikes - no damping adjust on forks and no remote res on shock. All other models have rebound adjust and remote res.

Now you've added more questions to the equation

Ref C&S you mentioned 15/43 whats the differance between that and 14/40 (i do like to play

) ?
On the subject of models my forks have an adjuster on them but i dont have a remote res on the rear ....

Cheers Dan

Post by **CMSMJ1** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:11 pm

14/40 and 15/43 are much of a muchness

0.35 and .348 - so the same effect.

Personally, I would go for 14/40 - smaller sprockets, shorter chain = lighter setup

Post by **Hadies** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:43 pm

But a bigger rear sprocket looks better :)

Post by **carpman** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:45 pm

Hadies wrote:But a bigger rear sprocket looks better :)

thats what its all about

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