Decided to keep the VFR, strip down and rebuild.

[karl BKK]

After 8 months of ownership and a fair share of faults, i've decided to hang on to her.
When she's running well she has all the power i would ever need for the dusty, pot holed Thai roads.
It's going to take a while to strip her down and rebuild her due to having to purchase a run about bike and a set of tools (wish i shipped my snap-on gear out here with me)
Luckily i have replaced every bearing outside of the engine so at least i don't have that expense, first port of call will be the same as all rebuilds, engine out and strip her down to her bra and thong then build her up with intentions of making a reliable and strong road bike.
She's not going to be a track machine, i barely get enough time to have a spirited blast on the road let alone a track.
Over the course of this year i hope to do the following

Engine rebuild (not 100% needed) but i want to blast and paint the block and covers so i may as well chuck a set of shells, rings, bore, skim etc etc

Uprated front discs and pads

uprated front master cylinder

Uprated front springs

13 tooth front sprocket, 40t aftermarket rear and another DID chain

Tyga exhaust system magot end can (no noise retrictions here in Thailand)

Programable CDI with TPS

DIY head job (HEAD job, not HAND!!) :D

Tyga rear sets

Nitron or similar rear shock (not a full out race unit, something modern and more road worthy than a re-con 18 year unit)

Tyga upper tripple clamp

Samco hoses

Replacement radiators



I'm not looking to go full out HRC with the carbs i'll just jet them to suit the Tyga system and Programmable CDI with TPS.
If anyone has any input into whether i have gone a bit OTT with my ROAD spec, please let me know.
Just told my girlfriend what i want to do and got the all important nod of approval, so the green light is on and as soon as i have a run around bike the stripping will commence, the bike...... NOT my girlfriend

[karl BKK]

First question, how much and contacts for a full engine rebuild kit, shells, seals, rings gaskets etc?

FAO Cammo, there's a lot of race bikes (400's) down in OZ, are there any suppliers for re-coned engines there mate, might be safer buying a rebuilt unit from OZ than trusting some Thai to bore the cylinders, grind the crank and skim the heads / block (if needed)
Then i could keep my engine as a spare :)

Thanks in advance for any help with what is going to be a lengthy thread.

Karl

[tanto]

On the road spec., here are my thoughts, FWIW:

- Brakes. Rather than upgrade to SP2 calipers, M/C, etc, the original Nissin setup should be more than adequate with new caliper seals, new fluid, & an overhaul for the M/C. You already have braided lines. Discs & pads are probably a more personal choice. I'm chewing over iron race discs, or EBC steel discs. Not sure which is best for Thai roads, but I'm pretty sure the race discs would get up to temperature on the mountain roads.

- Forks. Rick Oliver's fork spring kit seems like a no brainer. I'll do mine in the next week or so, and give you more feedback on it then.

- Gearing/sprockets. 13/40, why not? Sounds like fun.

- Tyga exhaust system magot. Personal choice. Deafening on a long ride, though.

- Programable CDI with TPS. Nice to have, but non-essential. You could buy a new engine for the same money.

- DIY head job (HEAD job, not HAND!!) :D. Depends on whose hands they are... If you can lap the valve seats, gas flow the heads, etc., why not? Assuming you really, really want to take the engine out...

- Tyga rear sets. Nice to have, but non-essential, unless you're heading for the track and need that extra 35mm clearance.

- Nitron or similar rear shock. This is where I'd spend the funds. It'd make the biggest difference to the bike, perhaps more than getting a few HP out of the engine.

- Tyga upper triple clamp. Really, I love the look of these things, but maybe after the Nitron shock?

- Samco hoses. Good, if you like blue, but replacing all the hoses with regular hoses would work fine, too.

- Replacement radiators. Custom made, alloy rads, extra-thickness, definitely worthwhile and not prohibitively expensive in Thailand. Perhaps add a CBR oil cooler. That should cover any heat issues.

As for a new engine, I heard that NC35 engines can be bought in Japan & shipped to Thailand without too much trouble. You've got the right wiring loom, after all!

[karl BKK]

I decided at work today that the Programable CDI with TPS is a bit over kill for the road, so i'll stick with a ignitech CDI from Rick

The upper tripple clamp and rear sets are just something of a finishing touch, something i have always wanted to buy, ever since i had m y c1h zx6r back home in good old blighty :)

The bike will not be back on the road until the whole list of parts above have been installed + loads of goodies from Rick, so she'll be sat up waiting month after month for new arrivals from the UK and Tyga Paul :)
Glad we both agree that the suspension is more important than chucking mega money at the engine in the quest for a few more ponies.

The engine will be coming out, as she has run hot a few times and lost a lot of coolant when a lower rad hose split 6 months back, the bike starts and runs fine but still gets a little too hot from time to time, it could be a blocked lower rad as that's the only thing i haven't thoroughly testes or a head gasket. So as my intentions are to keep her after spending alot of money on her, i may as well have the peace of mind that every thing is internally secure after 18 years :)

As for Samco hose, i think you're right, i'll knock them off my list, as i have just recently replaced the hoses any way, i guess i'm a bit of a sucker for shiny things, flashy websites and marketing lol :D

[Drunkn Munky]

A programable CDI with TPS is far from overkill for the road, The CDI will obviously allow different maps to be used which in your climate id say would help loads. The TPS will help even further on a road as it will allow you to dial in the ignition timing to work more effectively throughout the rev range and throttle position which can only help mid range performance. Your unlikely to see any top end gains unless you've had engine work but you could maybe squeeze a little out of it.

FYI a CBR TPS will NOT fit, its too big. I got mine from here as recomended by lange.
http://www.lambdatester.de/STARLANE/Sho ... ensor.html

[karl BKK]

Thanks for that link Drunken Monkey :)
I assume i can't use the TPS with the Ignitech CDI?

[Drunkn Munky]

Yes you can, Rick Oliver CDI's are Ignitech

[karl BKK]

Great news then, that works out to be a fairly inexpensive setup then :)
I'm sure i'll be asking more questions coming mapping and tweaking time :)

[Cammo]

FAO Cammo, there's a lot of race bikes (400's) down in OZ, are there any suppliers for re-coned engines there mate, might be safer buying a rebuilt unit from OZ than trusting some Thai to bore the cylinders, grind the crank and skim the heads / block (if needed)

Whoever you use, make sure that they're familiar with honda V4's. The obvious choices in Oz are:

RB Racing, heavily involved in Formula 400 racers - http://www.rbimports.com.au/

C&C Motorcycle Engineering, they used to run the Oz works rc30's and still do a heap of race engine work - http://www.yellowpages.com.au/vic/thoma ... sting.html

My last engine was done at C&C, highly recommended. They ship engines, but could be pricey to Thailand.

Both of these buinesses can source/provide all genuine parts for the engine build.

[karl BKK]

MODS

This thread may as well be deleted now as the bike has been sold and i should take delivery of a Yamaha R6 next week.
Sad to say goodbye to her, but me an my girlfriend decided on buying something a little newer :)
Great forum and thanks for all the help over the period i had the NC30 for, i would love to have another if i had the money to own two big bikes :)

Signing out, Karl from Bangkok. :)