total loss pro's and cons

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jurassicreps
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Bike owned: 1989 cbr400 nc23
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total loss pro's and cons

Post by jurassicreps »

hi all, im thinking of going total loss on my nc23 track bike. im a little worried that the negatives will outweigh the positives??
i have got a spare loom that im going to strip out of all wiring not needed.
will a battery last a whole track day if cooling fan comes in etc....?
what happens with the pick-up on the flywheel once removed?
would i be better off leaving the charging system fitted and wired up but just stripping the rest of the wiring not needed?
sorry for al the questions :whistle:
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vfrman
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Re: total loss pro's and cons

Post by vfrman »

If you are running a total loss, I think the cooling fan has to go too. It also wouldn't hurt to stick the bike on a charger between sessions.

If the bike is just for track days, I wouldn't bother.
yeurman
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Re: total loss pro's and cons

Post by yeurman »

you are worring about nothing. If your bike is for track or race, then total loss is a well tried and tested method. I have run this for 7 years with no problems at all, as long as you keep a good battery on your bike. I have a race loom schematic i can send you that you can build yourself and there yah go... just get a good optimate, not a 10 quid cheap copy. Cheers Col
yeurman
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Re: total loss pro's and cons

Post by yeurman »

PS... ditch the fan, remove the thermostat internals and get a good battery... cheers
col
blueflag
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Re: total loss pro's and cons

Post by blueflag »

NC23 is probably the easiest bike I've converted to total loss due to the starter clutch being on the other side of the engine, quite a big weight saving too when you take off the windings. As the guys say, charge it up between sessions and it'll be fine.
One thing, you'll be left with a hole at the top of the cover where the wires come out, I filled mine with plastic metal and filed it flat, nice and oil tight.
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selexon
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Re: total loss pro's and cons

Post by selexon »

I just done this on my 29, its quite easy.

I removed the alt/stator, starter motor, starter sprag, regulator, fan. and most of the wiring harness.

You will need to make a spacer for the pick-up rotor. And also a plug for the hole the stater leaves after been removed.

You may want to look at moving the CDI box to the headstock area as there will be no need for all the wires to run to the rear when all you have left is the coils, pick-up, oil pressure, fuel pump & tacho... I weighed all the parts the the other night and there is a good 4kgs that you save.

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