Removing half the exhaust
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- iDemonix
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- Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 10:26 pm
- Bike owned: '92 NC30
- Location: Banbury, Oxfordshire
Removing half the exhaust
I'll try to keep this short, but that won't happen.
Exhaust has cracked in two places; on the Y shaped piece before the can and in front of the back wheel on the pipe closest to the engine. Took it to a welders, welded the Y shaped piece, but we think it may of cracked round where the swingarm is in the way. Tried to weld #2, overflow pipes came in to play and chucked fuel everywhere when we leant the bike over. Because of this and the fact may of cracked where the swingarm is next to it, it needs to come off.
Quick note; I'm no mechanic. I've changed bulbs, fixed small electric problem, changed fairings and changed some radiator hoses on my dads Jag - that's about it - but I love learning and getting my hands dirty.
I don't need the front half off, it hasn't cracked and I don't think it's blowing - the crack is quite big on the rear half, can hear the air coming out easily, makes popping noises.
I've been looking for a while, I know that a short pipe section comes from the rear cylinders (stubby pipe? manifold?) and then the exhaust downpipes bolt on. I think I could reach this bolt if the mudguard and heatshield wasn't in the way. So this is what I think would work;
1. Remove rear fairings.
2. Remove right hand footpegs + heat shield (done this before to replace heat shield with none-rusted one).
3. Disconnect coolant and brake fluid tank from subframe along with suspension remote canister thingy. Unbolt exhaust can hanger, prop up the can on something.
4. Disconnect the many electricals going to the subframe.
5. Remove subframe (which takes the mudflap etc out of the way)
6. Rub bolts with wire brush + cover in WD40 + leave overnight??
7. Unbolt exhaust (much swearing at rust, rounded bolts etc)
8. Pull the pipes out of the two pipes under the bike that come from the front cylinder (am I right assuming these just pull apart? :S)
9. Voila.
Reverse = Reinstallation.
That's my guess at what needs to happen. It would probably be easier if I could remove the rear wheel. I have a paddock stand for the rear, but no 36mm socket or breaker bar.
Someone mentioned I'd need a new gasket for where the (stubby bit? manifold?) meets the downpipes, and some copper slip for the bolts.
Any help extremely welcomed, I'd like to get this done this week sometime.
Cheers,
Dan
Exhaust has cracked in two places; on the Y shaped piece before the can and in front of the back wheel on the pipe closest to the engine. Took it to a welders, welded the Y shaped piece, but we think it may of cracked round where the swingarm is in the way. Tried to weld #2, overflow pipes came in to play and chucked fuel everywhere when we leant the bike over. Because of this and the fact may of cracked where the swingarm is next to it, it needs to come off.
Quick note; I'm no mechanic. I've changed bulbs, fixed small electric problem, changed fairings and changed some radiator hoses on my dads Jag - that's about it - but I love learning and getting my hands dirty.
I don't need the front half off, it hasn't cracked and I don't think it's blowing - the crack is quite big on the rear half, can hear the air coming out easily, makes popping noises.
I've been looking for a while, I know that a short pipe section comes from the rear cylinders (stubby pipe? manifold?) and then the exhaust downpipes bolt on. I think I could reach this bolt if the mudguard and heatshield wasn't in the way. So this is what I think would work;
1. Remove rear fairings.
2. Remove right hand footpegs + heat shield (done this before to replace heat shield with none-rusted one).
3. Disconnect coolant and brake fluid tank from subframe along with suspension remote canister thingy. Unbolt exhaust can hanger, prop up the can on something.
4. Disconnect the many electricals going to the subframe.
5. Remove subframe (which takes the mudflap etc out of the way)
6. Rub bolts with wire brush + cover in WD40 + leave overnight??
7. Unbolt exhaust (much swearing at rust, rounded bolts etc)
8. Pull the pipes out of the two pipes under the bike that come from the front cylinder (am I right assuming these just pull apart? :S)
9. Voila.
Reverse = Reinstallation.
That's my guess at what needs to happen. It would probably be easier if I could remove the rear wheel. I have a paddock stand for the rear, but no 36mm socket or breaker bar.
Someone mentioned I'd need a new gasket for where the (stubby bit? manifold?) meets the downpipes, and some copper slip for the bolts.
Any help extremely welcomed, I'd like to get this done this week sometime.
Cheers,
Dan
- iDemonix
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- Posts: 651
- Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 10:26 pm
- Bike owned: '92 NC30
- Location: Banbury, Oxfordshire
Re: Removing half the exhaust
Wooh. Managed to find my Haynes manual.
Apparently it's doable by just removing the right footrest/brake/heat shield. Take the heat shield out and then zip-tie the brake/footrest assembly to the subframe to keep it outta the way. Do the pipes simply slip out of the front cylinder down pipes?
Apparently it's doable by just removing the right footrest/brake/heat shield. Take the heat shield out and then zip-tie the brake/footrest assembly to the subframe to keep it outta the way. Do the pipes simply slip out of the front cylinder down pipes?
- iDemonix
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- Bike owned: '92 NC30
- Location: Banbury, Oxfordshire
Re: Removing half the exhaust
No replies, this is becoming a diary, haha.
Managed to take the three bolts out securing the exhaust to the stubby - although it was a fucking nightmare with only a 3" extension bar on my socket - I'll get a 8" later.
Can't get the system off now, unbolted the can hanger and left it loose on the bolts, no amount of tugging is letting go though. I'm still assuming that the front and back pipes just slip apart.
I'll keep checking for input, back to WD40 and tugging!
Managed to take the three bolts out securing the exhaust to the stubby - although it was a fucking nightmare with only a 3" extension bar on my socket - I'll get a 8" later.
Can't get the system off now, unbolted the can hanger and left it loose on the bolts, no amount of tugging is letting go though. I'm still assuming that the front and back pipes just slip apart.
I'll keep checking for input, back to WD40 and tugging!
- porndoguk
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Re: Removing half the exhaust
i had to undo the fronts to get them out, they are sealed well and ideally need to be twisted apart,
also the rear manifold you may need to pry the mount off the 3 studs, as its a little tough.
wd40 i doubt will help. apart from smell nice when you start the engine gives it an aviation fuel smell
also the rear manifold you may need to pry the mount off the 3 studs, as its a little tough.
wd40 i doubt will help. apart from smell nice when you start the engine gives it an aviation fuel smell
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- CMSMJ1
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Re: Removing half the exhaust
Get a lot of WD40 or plusgas stuff on the 3 bolts. Also try to use a 6 point socket, rather than a 12 point- less chance of rounding them off.
You can take the rearset off and hold it up out the way and with some socket extension bars you can get in and sort it.
Taking the fronts off is going to make it so much easier to split them and also fit it back on too. Be prepared that the middle joints (to front pipes) will be made of rusty dust and not be there when you get it apart.
Good luck!!
You can take the rearset off and hold it up out the way and with some socket extension bars you can get in and sort it.
Taking the fronts off is going to make it so much easier to split them and also fit it back on too. Be prepared that the middle joints (to front pipes) will be made of rusty dust and not be there when you get it apart.
Good luck!!
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
- iDemonix
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- Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 10:26 pm
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- Location: Banbury, Oxfordshire
Re: Removing half the exhaust
I DID IT!!!!!!
I've never been so mechanically proud of myself. They're in the back of the car now, just heading out to go get them welded. Going to ask the guy to just absolutely smother every single Y joint as they all have hair line cracks. The bracket on the back cylinders was an absolute fucker to get off. A lot of gentle hammering and tugging.
I ended up taking the full system off.
Will all my gaskets need replacing?
Oddly, I don't actually think I had any gaskets at all
There's a lot of white stuff, I'll take a pic when I get back.
Cheers,
Dan



I've never been so mechanically proud of myself. They're in the back of the car now, just heading out to go get them welded. Going to ask the guy to just absolutely smother every single Y joint as they all have hair line cracks. The bracket on the back cylinders was an absolute fucker to get off. A lot of gentle hammering and tugging.
I ended up taking the full system off.
Will all my gaskets need replacing?
Oddly, I don't actually think I had any gaskets at all

Cheers,
Dan
- porndoguk
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Re: Removing half the exhaust
IDEALLY YESiDemonix wrote:I DID IT!!!!!!![]()
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I've never been so mechanically proud of myself. They're in the back of the car now, just heading out to go get them welded. Going to ask the guy to just absolutely smother every single Y joint as they all have hair line cracks. The bracket on the back cylinders was an absolute fucker to get off. A lot of gentle hammering and tugging.
I ended up taking the full system off.
Will all my gaskets need replacing?
Oddly, I don't actually think I had any gaskets at allThere's a lot of white stuff, I'll take a pic when I get back.
Cheers,
Dan
i reffitted my exhaust last year, and used new ones, but then when istripped the bike the other week i put it back on with old gaskets and no leakage!
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- iDemonix
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Re: Removing half the exhaust
At welders now, he's really welded the Y shaped pieces solid! Epic.
Think I'll get some gaskets online, I wanted it back together tonight, nevermind! I'm sure there were no gaskets when I took it apart =S will check when back home!
Edit; where to get gaskets from? Exhaust is aftermarket
Think I'll get some gaskets online, I wanted it back together tonight, nevermind! I'm sure there were no gaskets when I took it apart =S will check when back home!
Edit; where to get gaskets from? Exhaust is aftermarket
- porndoguk
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Re: Removing half the exhaust
RICK OLIVER, DAVE SILVER, EBAYiDemonix wrote:At welders now, he's really welded the Y shaped pieces solid! Epic.
Think I'll get some gaskets online, I wanted it back together tonight, nevermind! I'm sure there were no gaskets when I took it apart =S will check when back home!
Edit; where to get gaskets from? Exhaust is aftermarket
STANDARD HONDA ONES FIT AFTERMARKET TOO.
ALSO THERE WILL BE GASKETS IN BUT THERE CRUSHED AND YOULL NEED TO FLICK THEM OUT
shit just realised i have caps on vant be arsed toi retype.
Rick
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- iDemonix
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- Posts: 651
- Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 10:26 pm
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- Location: Banbury, Oxfordshire
Re: Removing half the exhaust
Back from the welders! Now to source some gaskets, re-assembly is going to be a whore.
Are there gaskets buried in there? Also any idea what all the white crap is that crumbled off as I removed the exhaust?
I knew Rick Oliver + eBay etc would do them, was hoping I could pick some up locally so I could get it done tomorrow!


Are there gaskets buried in there? Also any idea what all the white crap is that crumbled off as I removed the exhaust?
I knew Rick Oliver + eBay etc would do them, was hoping I could pick some up locally so I could get it done tomorrow!

