A few bike probs. Cracked mounts etc help please

Post by **jowyvfr** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 4:32 pm

Right having spent the whole of last saturday With a mate giving my bike a good seeing to ahead of this years trackdays, including striping it down to track bikebare essentials (was a road/track bike) I have come accross a couple of issues that I could benefit from some advice on. Firstly the right hand side crash bung (drill type) mount has a very large crack in it which israther worrying. Not sure howthis happened but the bikewasstilen last year and most probably took a fall onto it's side at some point. Is it possible to weld this to avoid it cracking my engine if it takes a tumble? Also we dicovered a strange issue when swapping the front pads over that has us puzzled. After putting in fresh pads the brake lever was really soft. We tried bleeding the lines but no joy. Perhaps I should mention I'm running cbrr calipers as then on losenjng the bolts slightly that hold te caliper onto the adaptor bracket the lever was as firm as anything! Tighten the bolts up and the lever goes soft again, it didn't have thi issue before and I don't know why it's happened now, any thoughts? Finally on stripping the bike down we removed the speedo drive and unit. We then spent an hour wondering why the bike bogged down after about 5000rpm before connecting it back in and finding it worked fine again. What is the cause of this and how do you get around it as track bikes will obviously not run a speedo. I've tried searching for these subjects with no joy and am anxious to sole tese isues before I need to go on track. Any thoughts appreciated. Joe.

Post by **skinnydog0_0** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 7:47 pm

Hi Not sure on teh engine mount, would be good to see a pic of the damage.
The brake will probably need bleeding at the master cylinder. Crack teh banjo bolt on teh master cylinder and bleed as per calipers. This should solve teh problem.
The bike cutting out is down to the safety resistor thing in the speedo, you can buy an M max box to get round this. I have an RVF so it's a little different. You may be able to get a cheap resistor of Rick oliver for a few quid.
HTH

Post by **Cammo** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:46 pm

jowyvfr wrote:Finally on stripping the bike down we removed the speedo drive and unit. We then spent an hour wondering why the bike bogged down after about 5000rpm before connecting it back in and finding it worked fine again. What is the cause of this and how do you get around it as track bikes will obviously not run a speedo.

You just need to solder in a resistor and a bit of extra wire and it will stop this.

The derestriction diagram is here:

http://www.400greybike.com/docs.htm

Johnny · Post by **Johnny** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 12:40 pm

Joe- I will try and get a pick up this weekend for you.

Cammo- would you still need to put a restricter on if no speedo drive/cable is connected??

Thanks

marti · Post by **marti** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:33 pm

If you remove the speedo cable that would work fine.
I normally remove the speedo and take the resitor out
its a small pcb held in by 2 screws.
Then tape the resistor up and cable tie it out of the way!
No soldering needed and costs nowt.
Marti

Post by **jowyvfr** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 9:26 pm

Cheers guys. out of interest is there any extra benefit with an m max box? Does it do anything else or is this its sole use?

Post by **Drunkn Munky** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:03 pm

jowyvfr wrote:Cheers guys. out of interest is there any extra benefit with an m max box? Does it do anything else or is this its sole use?

No mate thats all it does