Carb balancing

[beemerbitz]

Yes matey, i always let my bikes warm up before riding them.

[Josh312]

did u check that vacum pipe mate

[beemerbitz]

Well my new second hand carbs arrived this week, so today i set about fitting them. I stripped them to make sure everything was clean inside and everything else was in order. When i stripped them i found a couple of emulsion tubes were back to front, but the needles are diferent to the ones i had in the other carbs. They've got 5 slots on the top for a small e-clip and they are all set 2nd slot from the top. Also there are 120 mains in the rears and 115 in the front. Any way i cleaned and fitted the carbs but there's absolutely no difference to the running of the bike. I checked the vacuum hose again before fitting the carbs and let the bike warm up while i had a brew. What i have noticed is the fuel tap has a slight leak. Could this be the problem with the bike and is there a repair kit i could get to sort the leak out or is there a nice diy fix ?

[pauliealdridge69]

I have a similar problem... mine dies on tick over if i rev it fast...or try anyway...bike seems to run when out and if i rev it slowly on tickover its fine once im past 2000 revs..apparently this means its too rich...ive changed to the same jets and ive drilled pots and put washers on needles...also turned pilot screws to 2.5 turns instead of 2...you guys have any joy with yours?? Waiting for some replies before i split them all down lol....come on cammo!!

[CMSMJ1]

@ Paul - you have said it is too rich but then you made it richer by adding washer and changing jets (to what?)

@ generally - These bikes are not magical beasts that run on faery dust and hope. They are simple mechanical beasts and you just need to get them setup somewhere where they run and then go from there. So, put them to standard. Stop drilling sides and fucking about with needles. That is fine tuning. No point doing it if the sodding thing doesn't run.

If you have 115/118 jets, std needles with 0.5mm washer and the floats are set right then as long as your choke works, your pligs have not been killed and there is fuel...the bike will go.

If your bikes are then having erratic idle, rough idle or other issues then spend £25 for a cheap dyno run, get a fuelling graph and then figure out what is the problem.

As it stands, my NC30 with RVF carbs is being a right twat to start and idle. I suspect itis running lean at idle as once warm it will sit and burble away.. I'll be checking my a/f screw is right and go from there.

[beemerbitz]

Thanks for your straight talking fella, it's worked. Sometimes you just need someone to talk sense to you and take it on board i suppose. I had a day off work so I took the carbs off again yesterday,stripped them,rejetted to standard (Haynes manual settings) reset mixture screws, refitted carbs,built bike back up,re fuelled it and it runs. None of the issues i had before have re occured. In hind sight i shouldn't have tried to fix something that wasn't broken.
Thanks to everone for their input on this problem i created for myself.