Front Brake problem! HELP
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Front Brake problem! HELP
Basically the right hand side caliper (as you sit on the bike) was binding so i took it off to have a look. It seems that the pistons aren't returning at all when you release the lever, you have to use a good amount of force to shove them back in. I don't really know what to do about this?? How do i remove the pistons from the caliper to clean them? What seals would i need to replace?
Also the lever has a very spongy feel, bleeding makes a bit of difference, but it returns to being just as spongy very shortly. Does this indicate that a master cylinder rebuild is needed? i already put braided hoses on, which greatly reduced the lever travel, but I think something else needs to be done.
HELP lol
:D
Also the lever has a very spongy feel, bleeding makes a bit of difference, but it returns to being just as spongy very shortly. Does this indicate that a master cylinder rebuild is needed? i already put braided hoses on, which greatly reduced the lever travel, but I think something else needs to be done.
HELP lol
:D
- CMSMJ1
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Re: Front Brake problem! HELP
Get a Haynes manual and all will be revealed.
You have seized pistons and you need to strip adn clean the calipers and probably replace the seals in them...JOY
Once done though you are laughing and it is very easy if a little time consuming.
You have seized pistons and you need to strip adn clean the calipers and probably replace the seals in them...JOY
Once done though you are laughing and it is very easy if a little time consuming.
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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Re: Front Brake problem! HELP
I've got a haynes, though my bike is an NC24, is there any significant difference in caliper design?? Where can I get the seals from?
Cheers for the quick reply :D
Cheers for the quick reply :D
- CMSMJ1
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Re: Front Brake problem! HELP
Think the NC24 is a sliding calioper design and so youhave addtional greasing/lubing of the pins.
for seals I do not know - I'll bet the caliper is shared with a lot of similar aged bikes and so we need the fiche numbers and then get some seals. Might be as easy as calling your local dealer and asking?
The basics are the same - the pistons cannot retract due to the corrosion on them and under the seals. Once cleaned and lubed all will be sweet.
for seals I do not know - I'll bet the caliper is shared with a lot of similar aged bikes and so we need the fiche numbers and then get some seals. Might be as easy as calling your local dealer and asking?
The basics are the same - the pistons cannot retract due to the corrosion on them and under the seals. Once cleaned and lubed all will be sweet.
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
- spooky
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Re: Front Brake problem! HELP
David silvers spares has them mate, I got a full set of seals for both front calipers for the nc24 for £23.50. Not sure how much with vat+delivery as I ordered lots of stuff at the same time though. 

\That wee smilie can drink some Guinness. No wonder he's yellow.
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Re: Front Brake problem! HELP
Yea i found them cheers mate. One set of seals and a master cyl rebuild kit sent to my door was £45
Ive emailed rick oliver see if he has em ne cheaper

Ive emailed rick oliver see if he has em ne cheaper

- spooky
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Re: Front Brake problem! HELP
Id just do both calipers with new seals as if one side needs them then the other side could soon seize up too. 

\That wee smilie can drink some Guinness. No wonder he's yellow.
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Re: Front Brake problem! HELP
this has to be a first, a thread with comments about greasing and lubbing and no sign of a comment from EC
- spooky
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Re: Front Brake problem! HELP
EC
I thought he just played guitars, Oh, you mean Evil Chicken.





\That wee smilie can drink some Guinness. No wonder he's yellow.
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Re: Front Brake problem! HELP
Hiya mate
Spent tonight sorting the brake calipers on my NC24 (hence still being up at 5am!) but they really are a doddle to do.
Heres a rough guide but if you need any help just message me and i'll do my best to help.
Since you've already had the caliper off i'll omit instruction on how to remove it.
1. With the caliper off the fork but the fluid line still attatched remove the brake pads and retaining pins.
2. Pull the mounting braket away from the caliper and it will separate into two pieces, check the rubber seals are ok and remove any old grease and clean up the sliding pins
3. Squeeze the brake lever gently to make the pistons come out quite a bit.
4. Disconnect the fluid line from the caliper (get a jar ready to catch dripping fluid)
5. With some adjustable pliers and rag around the piston you should now be able to pull them out of the caliper
6. Check the pistons for any sign of pitting or scoring, clean them with some meths etc to remove dirt / grease.
7. Inspect the bore for any wear / damage and clean up the same
8. The haynes manual for the NC30 has NC24 at the back, worth checking the bore sizes for excessive wear
9. Prise out the old seals and replace with the new ones, coat them in new brake fluid first.
10. Any pitting or wear on the pistons, use new ones, otherwise carefully push the pistons back in making sure they are square and level to avoid damaging the seals, coat the new pistons in fresh brake fluid first to help insertion.
11. Apply fresh grease to sliding pins and re-attatch the mounting bracket to caliper, checking dust seals are located properly
11. Attatch caliper to frame, attatch fluid hose and bleed brake.
Providing the old pads are in good condition with no contamination you can re-use them. I installed new pads, remember if you use new pads that they'll need a few hundred miles to 'bed-in' and if you re-use the old pads make sure they are installed the same way as you removed them.
The brake caliper rebuild kit from david silvers comes with all the seals for the pistons and the sliders. David silvers specialise in genuine honda parts tho, wemoto stock stainless steel pistons for about £3.00 more.
Spent tonight sorting the brake calipers on my NC24 (hence still being up at 5am!) but they really are a doddle to do.
Heres a rough guide but if you need any help just message me and i'll do my best to help.
Since you've already had the caliper off i'll omit instruction on how to remove it.
1. With the caliper off the fork but the fluid line still attatched remove the brake pads and retaining pins.
2. Pull the mounting braket away from the caliper and it will separate into two pieces, check the rubber seals are ok and remove any old grease and clean up the sliding pins
3. Squeeze the brake lever gently to make the pistons come out quite a bit.
4. Disconnect the fluid line from the caliper (get a jar ready to catch dripping fluid)
5. With some adjustable pliers and rag around the piston you should now be able to pull them out of the caliper
6. Check the pistons for any sign of pitting or scoring, clean them with some meths etc to remove dirt / grease.
7. Inspect the bore for any wear / damage and clean up the same
8. The haynes manual for the NC30 has NC24 at the back, worth checking the bore sizes for excessive wear
9. Prise out the old seals and replace with the new ones, coat them in new brake fluid first.
10. Any pitting or wear on the pistons, use new ones, otherwise carefully push the pistons back in making sure they are square and level to avoid damaging the seals, coat the new pistons in fresh brake fluid first to help insertion.
11. Apply fresh grease to sliding pins and re-attatch the mounting bracket to caliper, checking dust seals are located properly
11. Attatch caliper to frame, attatch fluid hose and bleed brake.
Providing the old pads are in good condition with no contamination you can re-use them. I installed new pads, remember if you use new pads that they'll need a few hundred miles to 'bed-in' and if you re-use the old pads make sure they are installed the same way as you removed them.
The brake caliper rebuild kit from david silvers comes with all the seals for the pistons and the sliders. David silvers specialise in genuine honda parts tho, wemoto stock stainless steel pistons for about £3.00 more.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...