Hi
After frustrating myself trying to get ramair working properly with VFR carbies I have now got some RVF carbies.

Can't seem to get the old forum working via the link on the front page so am after some info from people who have ramiar working with RVF carbies, mainly jets, needles, springs, mods required ect.

I am running a full Ethos exhaust, have an O2 sensor to fine tune fueling when I have i running but would like to get it half sorted before I swap carbies on.

thanks
jon

No-one?

Is a HRC replica kit avaialable for RVF carbies?

thanks
jon

My initial response would have been to not bother...but if you are keen then I guess you need to get a sealed airbox and a fuel pump for starters.

There is a HRC kit for the NC35 - Rick Oliver does it but not the 20mm trumpets as they are discontinued.

I fitted a snout and box to mine but as I was a total amateur I did ont have a fuel pump. I found that at certain speeds and revs the bike would struggle badly and so I sacked it. I am never going to get more than 65 out of my bike and if I wanted to go faster then I would drink less beer :D

How far along with your VFR carbs did you get? I see no realistic reason why one should work better than the other?

I too am in the process of setting up my track VFR (with VFR carbs) with ram air. Rick Oliver will do HRC replica carb kits for both the VFR and RVF, but I was under the impression that it's not needed to have kitted carbs to run R-A.

As Mark says, you will need a fuel pump, #38Pilots and I'd imagine mid to high 120 jets (I'm gonna start at 128's all round. You can fit short stacks all around if you have RVF carbs (as I have done to my road bike) but apparently you can remove the VFR stacks completely with no adverse effect (contact ChrisXR750, that's who'll be helping me out with this, he has dyno'd back to back with and without the stacks and it made no difference)

A fully sealed air box (I hope to eventually fit the larger Tyga air-box lid), some well spent dyno time, sticky tyres and go enjoy yourself.

sounds like you dont have the plumbing of the slides and float bowls done correct, you will need a fuel pump i have heard it works without but we havnt got it running correctly without. There are a few modifications required aside from the final jet and needle settings, email me if i get chance i can try and explain what you need to do and just what is needed. The hrc mouths arnt necesary for the job cheap option is a breaker and set of bellmouths from another rvf and just use the short ones out of the set you have, needles only need changing when you have problems in many cases stock needles offer better setup, i wouldnt rush into getting larger pilots as in a lot of cases with the 35s these are pretty rich low down all else being correct. If you list what you have in a email i may be able to offer you some help.

The open airbox setup is far from ram air.

You'll never get ram air to work unless you modify the float bowls, etc as Chris states.

if you can get the kit i beleive rick does a set of needles possibly with matching tubes try him, but as said above i think your fault isnt just the fueling you have its a presure issue inside the carbs that needs equalising first, all the extras will just help fine tune your settings

Thanks Guys, the mod stuff is the info I am after, will fine tune fueling on the track with O2 logger.

Email sent to Chris.

regards
jon

I didn't have any problems with my set up.
Best to get a fuel pump though, solve a lot of issues even with the non ram air setup.

how do you wire the fuel pump guys and does anyone run a tilt switch?