I know NC30 sometimes do but i thought you should keeps 35's the same front and back, i ask as ive just dismantled my carbs and the jetting s different front and back.

RVFs came from the factory with 110's all round(might have been 108's accually lol) but if the bike has been set up on the dyno the operator should have set it up to run with the best combination,which could be staggered or the same

if it's running grand then leave it be but if it's going to get set up then the dude's going to the best from it

Last time i was out on the bike it run really well up top but the midrange lacked a bit. got another trackday in a few weeks so im gunna fit some HRC springs which may help the midrange, I've also fitted a HRC carb tray as i had one lying about and will be fitting a yammoto half system when it turns up from CRM.
Im hoping all this wont put the fueling out to much, it currently runs 122 front and 120 rear jets, rubber flap removed, no snorkle and a thin layer of foam and like i said pulls really well just lacked a bit of midrange. Not gunna get ime to get it on the dyno before hand so gunna have to see how the plugs look on the day.

If this is any help to you, my '30 runs '35 carbs. HRC springs, 4 short stacks, 115's all round, standard position needles, 2 turns out on the a/f screws, K+N filter, no snorkel and HRC tray. This ran really well with my stack, and I'll see how it goes with the SP system on the Dyno once the cans are back and I have rubber fitted to the wheels.

I love carb threads.. always worth throwing in random titbits

I run 35 carbs on my 30 with 130 mains, 2 turns on the screw, 1mm shims in all four, no airbox lid, std honda filter, 4 short stacks, HRC tray, drilled slides and used various pipes -all to good effect.

CMSMJ1 wrote:I love carb threads.. always worth throwing in random titbits

I run 35 carbs on my 30 with 130 mains, 2 turns on the screw, 1mm shims in all four, no airbox lid, std honda filter, 4 short stacks, HRC tray, drilled slides and used various pipes -all to good effect.

I didnt think you had to drill he slides on the 35 carbs????

im tempted to run with no airbox lid but as i dont use the bike on the road im gunna need an open pit lane day to get the fueling right and they dont come up that often.
What affect does needle positions and turns on the af screws have? i havent checked or played with them as yet.
I was suprised the bike ran at all without that rubber flap, when i removed it on my old road rvf it ran like a bag o $hite.
Anyway ive asked rick o for some HRC springs and 1mm washers to replace the 2 0.5mm washers so i'll fit them and check the needle positions and af screws when ive worked out how and see how that goes. Might also be worth adding my bike runs a slight tune, ported and gas flowed. The extent of which i dont know as it was carried out by the previous owner, its nick gravleys old bike for those who remember him.

drilling slides and HRC springs do the same job so it's advised to nc35 folk to buy the springs as you can swop the springs out if it does run right but you can't fill a bigger hole in the slides

The clip position is mainly used for fine tuning the area around 1/4 throttle once you have selected your Main jet and Metering needles.

The Idle Mixture Screws have no real effect other then idle and a very small transition.



The HRC manaul has staggered jet sizes (#148 front & #152 rear) as I don't have the ability to run 02 sensors with a single exhaust I intend on running bigger jets in the rear.

regards
jon

the standard main jet size for the nc35 all round is 108


william

wullvfr wrote:the standard main jet size for the nc35 all round is 108
william

i was close ....