Hi all, keen on advice around my left switchgear on nc30 as well as my nc30/35 project. 400gb seems to be down!?

1) I did the low beam relay mod a few years ago with no issues, just clamped it on. Went to go solder properly about 6 months ago and low beam wouldn’t work. Had another child and so time disappeared and here I am. On checking now, reverting to stock the low beam still doesn’t work. High beam and park lights fine. When I bypass the switch (by connecting lights to black/red white) low beams work. Am I right in saying my switchgear must be gone? Looking inside it looks okay I believe, is there anything I can do with the existing gear? I wouldn’t mind just wiring it to always on if I can do this through the relay. Also keen on advice as I can’t remember the order for the wires! Have attached my current plan - hard to tell when my relay doesn’t have the expected numbers on it.

Second query - I have a project where the plan is to build an rvf that has an nc30 engine, loom, cdi, coils and carbs, everything else rvf (as it is a nightmare getting rvf things in this country and I had some spares). However this loom looks a little odd to me - looks like the nc30 cdi connects up no issues, but (when I was looking to try the spare switchgear I had) noted the ‘nc35’ switchgear that came with the bike has an odd plug on the bottom - can I confirm this is a switchgear from an rvf? And could I reword for the nc30 and what wires do what/how do I do this? The other weird thing is I can’t find the plugs on the supposedly nc30 loom that I would expect to connect to the switchgear!!? Can anyone shed some light on this for me?


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"When I bypass the switch (by connecting lights to black/red white) low beams work." refers to the loom or the switch block? Your diagram has all relay info needed or a multimeter on ohms range will tell you which relay terminals of the coil, the others will be the contacts.

magg wrote:"When I bypass the switch (by connecting lights to black/red white) low beams work." refers to the loom or the switch block? Your diagram has all relay info needed or a multimeter on ohms range will tell you which relay terminals of the coil, the others will be the contacts.

Hi,

The loom (at the connectors to the loom should I say)- I connected the white wire to the live wire. My diagram is correct then? I wasn’t sure.

Not sure what you mean by ‘a multimeter on ohms range will tell you which relay terminals of the coil, the others will be the contact’ - are there some words missing from that? Checking resistance/continuity I am not great at (and my multimeter needs a new battery lol), what would I check and how would I do this, ie what setting do I have it on, what wires do I check and where, and what reading am I looking for


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If you connected white wire to black/red at the relay connections, you have by-passed the switch and the relay.

Perhaps the relay has failed. Multimeter set to lowest ohms range and then connected across 85 and 86 terminals should read resistance, this is the relay coil and infinite resistance between 30 and 87 relay contacts, if your diagram is correct and the relay is not faulty. No coil resistance is a faulty relay, but you should check all terminal pairs in case your diagram is incorrect.

If you apply 12 volts to the relay coil terminal pair the relay should operate and may also have emit a click sound as the contacts close. With power applied to the coil, the resistance between the other pair of terminals should fall from infinity to no more than 1-2 ohms if relay ok.

The white wire that comes from the switch block should have 12 volts when the headlight switch is in the ON position.

magg wrote:If you connected white wire to black/red at the relay connections, you have by-passed the switch and the relay.

Perhaps the relay has failed. Multimeter set to lowest ohms range and then connected across 85 and 86 terminals should read resistance, this is the relay coil and infinite resistance between 30 and 87 relay contacts, if your diagram is correct and the relay is not faulty. No coil resistance is a faulty relay, but you should check all terminal pairs in case your diagram is incorrect.

If you apply 12 volts to the relay coil terminal pair the relay should operate and may also have emit a click sound as the contacts close. With power applied to the coil, the resistance between the other pair of terminals should fall from infinity to no more than 1-2 ohms if relay ok.

The white wire that comes from the switch block should have 12 volts when the headlight switch is in the ON position.

Thanks!

Went out today, and had a look at the switch, and it works again! Who knows!!! Relay wired in soldered and working.

Next is the loom!? Are any looms known to have different connectors for the left switchgear? The large plugs match, though one has a wire that the other doesn’t which doesn’t make sense.


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handlebar switch connector blocks appear correct, can you be more specific as to the mismatch issue.

magg wrote:handlebar switch connector blocks appear correct, can you be more specific as to the mismatch issue.

Both looms are supposed to be nc30, and both fit my nc30 cdi. However picture 1 is the connectors from my running bike left switchgear (two connectors black and browny red), the later picture is the connector from the switchgear on the spare loom and switchgear - switchgear has one large connector, loom has one large connector and one three pin connector.


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Second picture is right side switch block run/stop and start function. First loom connector picture with two plugs could/should be left side switch block, three pin only connector is clutch switch and larger is headlight/turn functions.