Hi All,

I have been having a lot of regulator issues. My OEM regulator failed so I replaced it with a cheap chinese one which failed after about 500Km, I took it back to the shop I bought it from and was told to use a heat sink and it would be fine. So I put a new chinese regulator with an aluminium heat sink and thermal paste. This regulator lasted about 1200km. My method of judging failure was that the three yellow wires that come off the generator had started to burn just before the connector pin (on the side of the bike), after which I switched the bike off and checked the battery where I saw some acid had boiled out. Am I correct in saying the regulator has failed?

Are these regulators failing because they are simply cheap rubbish or are there any possible underlying issues? If so what could they be?

I am considering doing a mod to maybe the R1/R6 regulator, how reliable are these?


Thanks in advance.

Any pictures of the Chinese rectifier/regulators.

They are cheap for a reason, lower grade components, not designed to last, for rectifiers either but the OEM Upgraded part from Honda, one from Electrex or convert a Yamaha sheinigen one (spely wrong!) as they are far more reliable.
Also check your generator outputs!

Hi, the regulator looks like this.

The shindengen regulator, is this a standard part on the yamaha R1/R6? Or aftermarket part?

Is there a metal plate on the mounting side.

R1/R6 regulator or OEM Honda spec unit is the way to go

Cheapo chinese rubbish is a waste of time and money

Is there a metal plate on the mounting side.

Yes there is, I also added my own aluminium plate inbetween the regulator and frame, as well as thermal paste.

For the R1/R6 regulator, are there any special mods required or is it simply a matter of connecting the wires? Also is it a specific model R1/R6 regulator I can only use or can model?

JamieDemos wrote:For the R1/R6 regulator, are there any special mods required or is it simply a matter of connecting the wires? Also is it a specific model R1/R6 regulator I can only use or can model?

You have to change the OEM wiring to work with the R6 R/R if you want it to be properly done, but you could do it other, less than proper ways. There are kits out there that do this proper. I've had my OEM shit the bed and an aftermarket one broke a couple years later after I commuted on the bike one week that was really hot. R6 R/R is much better in a so many ways, so you should go that route.