I am pondering getting an Ignitech unit with the improved standard mapping for the 30.

I am just wondering if anyone has any experience with these on a fairly standard road setup. I have done a search and there is lots about the HRC map and race bikes, but not much I can find on people's experience on a road set up.

I am currently running a Yamamoto half system with 118/120 and RO needles. I am not looking for more power but if it's effective in smoothing out the power delivery then it's worth it to me.

Cheers

Pete

what do you expect from "smoothing out the power delivery?"

properly setup even the stock NC30 fuels propely and deliverys its power very smooth and linear.

What is it about your bike you feel you would like to change?

(oh and from the sound of the current thread my current answer is no it wont be worht it)

I was holding to sort the fluffiness at about 7k, I know I should probably get it on a dyno to sort it, but was hoping for a lazy plug and play answer!

fatpete wrote:I was holding to sort the fluffiness at about 7k, I know I should probably get it on a dyno to sort it, but was hoping for a lazy plug and play answer!

If it were a fuel injected bike with a fuel / air map then probbaly...

this issue is not a timining issue but a fuelling issue, which as you know are mechanical carbs on this bike.

The 7000rpm area is well documented in the carb guide... a lot of people have found the bike goes lean in this area as it is where the bike transitions from the slow jets to the main jets.

An easy fix is to make this transition richer, by raising the needles 1mm they will deliever more fuel sooner throughout the rev-range.. Rick O sells precision cut shim washers to go under the needles for a couple of quid.

Only need to get tank off, carbs dont have to come off, just the caps on the top and shim the needles.

much cheaper to try than ignitech too and much more liekly to sort your issue out :)

I wont' say it's not worth it but you need to define why you feel you need one. I tried one of the race bike for the following reasons. Since I have data on the bike part of that includes a TPS sensor so I thought it would be an interesting test to try and play with ignition timing a little to see is we could squeeze a tick more power out of the second version of the motor we put together. Along those lines the race units include the ability to block the ignition via an external input such as pressure switch for a quick shifter. That would allow us to reduce the electronic devices on the bike by 1. We could remove the Dynojet Quckshifter control box and eliminate complexity and weight.

I will say at this point I have had mixed results with the unit. The bike would run great and then all of a sudden would just shutdown. The result being a bike with no spark until you shut the power off and on. Didn't seem to matter if the bike was under load or not. We let it idle in the shop while making a video to show the Ignitech guys the problem. Even idling it shut off and would not fire the plugs until we removed power form the unit and then re-applied power.

We are hoping that a firmware update they have released for it will solve the issue but I won't know until we upgrade the units and put the bike back on the dyno or track.

I got one for my racebike and it did make an improvement in a few areas, mainly by being able to raise the rev limit.

However on a roadbike, I'd say you're better off spending some money on dyno time getting the fuelling right. I don't agree with just putting recommended jets and needle shims in (not a dig at anyone on here, just personal experience), a few hours on the dyno with a box of jets can sort most of the fuelling issues out..

TyeNoodle wrote:I got one for my racebike and it did make an improvement in a few areas, mainly by being able to raise the rev limit.

However on a roadbike, I'd say you're better off spending some money on dyno time getting the fuelling right. I don't agree with just putting recommended jets and needle shims in (not a dig at anyone on here, just personal experience), a few hours on the dyno with a box of jets can sort most of the fuelling issues out..

For a stock nc30 road bike with no other problems the jetting and needle shim settings in the carb guide have been built up and confirmed over many years by dozens of bike owners, countless dyno runs and trial and error.

It's the best place to start.

The trouble with a lot of VFRS is they have been messed with in the past, and not always for the better.

Setting up a stock nc30 to the carb guide settings will 99% of times get your bike running spot on or there abouts. Well worth using a base setting for any further dyno time you wish to do, will save you a lot of dyno time and money working from a known good base than just turning up to a dyno with a shitty fuelling bike and trying to get it running better.

removing airbox mods and replacing missing flaps along with 115/118 or 118/120 jettings, stock eveything else, 6.8mm float heights and 2 turns on the pilot screws will give you a good runnign bike you can further work from. If it doesn't run well at these settings to begin with then you probably have some other issues which should be addressed before tuning.

I've had 5 NC30s on the dyno and they all ran with one of the above combination of jets.

The lack of mods and options for the bike makes tuning quite easy as most people have the same kind of setup.

As for the ignitech comments, yes I agree with that its useful if you have a use for it, such as rev limit, custom mappings or some other special work.

The issue described by the original poster is more commonly caused by fuelling and as such the unit wont alter that.

venom51 wrote:I wont' say it's not worth it but you need to define why you feel you need one. I tried one of the race bike for the following reasons. Since I have data on the bike part of that includes a TPS sensor so I thought it would be an interesting test to try and play with ignition timing a little to see is we could squeeze a tick more power out of the second version of the motor we put together. Along those lines the race units include the ability to block the ignition via an external input such as pressure switch for a quick shifter. That would allow us to reduce the electronic devices on the bike by 1. We could remove the Dynojet Quckshifter control box and eliminate complexity and weight.

I will say at this point I have had mixed results with the unit. The bike would run great and then all of a sudden would just shutdown. The result being a bike with no spark until you shut the power off and on. Didn't seem to matter if the bike was under load or not. We let it idle in the shop while making a video to show the Ignitech guys the problem. Even idling it shut off and would not fire the plugs until we removed power form the unit and then re-applied power.

We are hoping that a firmware update they have released for it will solve the issue but I won't know until we upgrade the units and put the bike back on the dyno or track.

Are you using the TCI or CDI version?

CDI...

It was one of the early units produced.