....added this today to keep track on the charging status of the bike.





It is wired, via a 500mA fast blow fuse to the switched live on the mainbeam relay.

We are losing a little over 1V in the wiring loom - so when the engine is running we are getting between 12V and 13.7V

The shot here is without the engine running - so the battery is showing about 12.5V.

It is fastened to the ignition barrel via heavy duty Velcro.

Sorry but things are looking a bit cluttered there a good idea the DVM but seems a bit Ott thought you had given the charging system a good health check and mod all these extra bits would be more at home on a bandit or something of that ilk IMHO but hey it's your bike and you batter in the miles more than most of us on here so why not for peace of mind .
Stick a teas made in there and you may have to up front tyre pressure maybe

davethetrucker wrote:Sorry but things are looking a bit cluttered there a good idea the DVM but seems a bit Ott thought you had given the charging system a good health check and mod all these extra bits would be more at home on a bandit or something of that ilk IMHO but hey it's your bike and you batter in the miles more than most of us on here so why not for peace of mind .
Stick a teas made in there and you may have to up front tyre pressure maybe

Dunno about a teas made...but if I could cook bacon whilst I'm riding...and then have a sarnie ready when I stop. That'd rool!

Battery charge voltage is the figure that is important for long battery life so the battery should be the measurement point.

magg wrote:Battery charge voltage is the figure that is important for long battery life so the battery should be the measurement point.

I agree - however I wanted it to be switched with ignition. Comparing the output on the DVM and a proper DVM across the battery terminals - the DVM from the lights was about 1.4V down - so when I'm riding and see 13.2V on the DVM - I know that the battery is getting 14.6V

Just as back-ground, your on bike voltmeter should have an input resistance high enough to draw effectively zero current, so can remain connected to battery indefinately. The voltmeter specification should provide the input resistance.

magg wrote:Just as back-ground, your on bike voltmeter should have an input resistance high enough to draw effectively zero current, so can remain connected to battery indefinately. The voltmeter specification should provide the input resistance.

I concur. Just the paranoid in me doesn't want to be stranded 400miles from home after a night away....

davethetrucker wrote:Sorry but things are looking a bit cluttered there a good idea the DVM but seems a bit Ott thought you had given the charging system a good health check and mod all these extra bits would be more at home on a bandit or something of that ilk IMHO but hey it's your bike and you batter in the miles more than most of us on here so why not for peace of mind .
Stick a teas made in there and you may have to up front tyre pressure maybe

Bandit!
I probably got more Ti and carbon on my bandit than most V4 riders.

I have a 12V cigarette lighter on my RVF400 and leave a voltmeter loosely plugged into it (which also has a USB socket).

Having had NC30 and NC35 charging/battery issues I find it handy to quickly check that the battery and alternator are ok.

an on off switch fitted inline with the meter?

A relay fed directly from the battery with good quality cable and the relay coil powered by a 12V igntion live would also do this, but more work than an inline switch but more "automatic"