Not the usual non-starting thread as it starts and runs OK. My question is:

Should the choke crack the throttles open a touch when used? i.e. bring the idle speed up as well.
or maybe
Should it be possible to use a tiny bit of throttle to get the revs to lift from cranking to a smooth running speed? Mine won't take any at all hence having to wind in the idle screw and then back it off as the engine warms up.

The "choke" is a bi starter with its own air valve and fuel valve completely independent of the main pilot circuit and throttle operation, so does not open the throttle.
Screwing in the throttle stop is the same as opening the twist grip a tiny amount.

My NC35 needed full choke and slight throttle to start, then on closed throttle would run very slowly for 5 seconds then pick up to over 2000rpm.
I reduced the choke after 15 seconds to obtain a 1600 rpm tick over, then closed it after another 15 secs so it ticked over at 1000rpm. When up to temp it ran at 1200rpm.

So it could be the air valve not be working properly, that could be a pointer in the right direction. Thanks

The ckoke is pretty reliable but look to see all 4 are opening when the cable is operated.
Could be an obstruction in an airway, but never had any problems, apart from when a bike sat for years and the choke plungers seized solid.

i've had a seized choke on an NC30 (v similar) in the past.

from memory, if you take the tank and airbox off you'll be able to see the choke mechanism working/not working when you pull the choke cable - the cable operates the RHS of the top of the engine. something was seized on mine and was freed up easy enough

Hello, I have a choke issue. First off I took off tank and air filter box to see choke. Everything seems fine and smooth with mechanisms, as they move easily by hand, but the cable itself is tight to pull.
So when I put on the choke, the revs very slowly decrease and would prob cause motor to stop running if left. The revs do not go up in any way When the choke is on.
Any ideas ?

Theres a linkage from the front carbs to the rear are both moving freely and springing back when you operate the arm where cable attaches ?

Hello dyna, thanks for your help. Ya the linkage from front to rear carbs are moving freely and springs seems to be fine as it moves back.