Page 1 of 2
Stator compatibility
Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 7:29 pm
by alexandervf
Hi,
I would appreciate it if someone could tell me if a '94 , '95 VFR750 stator is a straight fit for a nc35 engine.
All opinions are welcome but since it is an on-line purchase (not taken place yet), i would be much obliged if someone is 100% certain that it will fit.
Thank you all
Re: Stator compatibility
Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 12:14 am
by Variablevalves suck
I honestly don't know if it would fit but I would be gob smacked if it was a direct fit.
If so it would have the same part number.
I would expect it would be heavier to accommodate the heavier mass of the bigger engine, might be wrong though.
Re: Stator compatibility
Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 2:20 am
by GeeTee
stator is fixed to the engine, doesn't spin and just contains the coils
rotor turns with crank, holds the magnets and acts as a flywheel
Re: Stator compatibility
Posted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 10:34 am
by dgunthor
if you've got time, you could get yours rewound, normally places offering a quick postal turnaround service for this
Re: Stator compatibility
Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 1:11 pm
by RickOliver
Th VFR750 FR-onwards stator does have the same inner and outer diameter as the NC35 unit but it is wider so the two are not interchangeable.
The Electrex G53 is a drop in brand new replacement stator, I have them in stock at £85.00 if you want one...
ricknc30@gmail.com
Rick
Re: Stator compatibility
Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 7:19 pm
by alexandervf
Thank you all for taking the time to answer.
Well, i got a little hasty and bought the stator. The plan is to unwind it, insulate and rewind it . At this point i would also like to thank you rick for the offer, it was kind of you to do so.
Rick, when you say "wider", what is the difference we are talking about? and since my feeling was right when i first saw the stator photo, do you think a washer can "do the trick"?
Alex
Re: Stator compatibility
Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 9:44 pm
by RickOliver
The third dimension quoted after the inside and outside diameters is the thickness of the centre section where the mounting bolts go through - on the VFR750 it is 24mm, on the NC35 it`s 15mm - somehow I don`t think a washer is going to help...!
I`m fairly certain that the VFR stator won`t fit inside the RVF rotor and you don`t have the option of using the VFR750 rotor because it has a different size taper and won`t fit the end of the RVF crank.
Whether or not you get it from me, I think that you will save yourself a lot of grief and wasted effort by just buying an NC35 stator...
Rick
Re: Stator compatibility
Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 2:06 pm
by Neosophist
alexandervf wrote:Thank you all for taking the time to answer.
Well, i got a little hasty and bought the stator. The plan is to unwind it, insulate and rewind it . At this point i would also like to thank you rick for the offer, it was kind of you to do so.
Rick, when you say "wider", what is the difference we are talking about? and since my feeling was right when i first saw the stator photo, do you think a washer can "do the trick"?
Alex
I would not unwind an old stator, the insulation will be aged and heat hardneded and just crack off and cause shorts. You will end up with 2 scrapped stators.
You can buy rolls of stator wire if you have an original stator you can rewind.
Are you really struggling to get a stock nc30 stator?
Re: Stator compatibility
Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:11 pm
by alexandervf
Rick,
Once again thank you for all the useful info! I might as well have made a bad investment, but reselling is always an option....i shall see.
Neo,
On my original nc35 stator,I have already removed the old wire as well as the insulation that was aged as you mentioned, i re insulated the core and re winded new 1,05mm enameled wire.
Since 2012 that this job took place everything is in good order. When i re winded my stator i did as many windings as there were on the original.
The only draw back is that i do not get more than 13,9v (engine running at 5000rpm and lights on). I wanted it to be at 14.2v minimum. Anyway, i should have run 3 or 4 windings more per core pole in order to have that number achieved.
This is where the "new" stator comes in. So that it eventually replaces the "old" (weaker) one in due time. No rush. And no i m not struggling for a nc30 stator, i was though struggling for an original nc35 stator.
You can see the job done in this post
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=38493
Re: Stator compatibility
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 10:56 am
by Neosophist
alexandervf wrote:Rick,
Once again thank you for all the useful info! I might as well have made a bad investment, but reselling is always an option....i shall see.
Neo,
On my original nc35 stator,I have already removed the old wire as well as the insulation that was aged as you mentioned, i re insulated the core and re winded new 1,05mm enameled wire.
Since 2012 that this job took place everything is in good order. When i re winded my stator i did as many windings as there were on the original.
The only draw back is that i do not get more than 13,9v (engine running at 5000rpm and lights on). I wanted it to be at 14.2v minimum. Anyway, i should have run 3 or 4 windings more per core pole in order to have that number achieved.
This is where the "new" stator comes in. So that it eventually replaces the "old" (weaker) one in due time. No rush. And no i m not struggling for a nc30 stator, i was though struggling for an original nc35 stator.
You can see the job done in this post
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=38493
Yes I remember.
What is your earthing like / what are the specs on the reg/rec.
The stator as you know generates AC volts.. maybe like 50v or more at a few thousand RPM which is rectified into DC and regulated down to 13-15v.
Id imagine if you wanted to see 14v itd be down to the reg/rec, ive had ones that regulate at 14.4 volts no matter what and others that regulate a bit lower in the 13s.