Ok so I've had my rear sets back on and I'm not sure my gearshift feels correct. I think i like the angle of the footpeg but I'm trying to get my head round the mechanics of changing the angle length of the gear shift rod and angle of the lever (whilst keeping the pedal in the same position)
Now my thinking is if the lever is parallel to the line of the rod then the gear shift will be easier to move but require more movement, the further the lever is away from the parallel/vertical point the harder the pedal becomes but a shorter movement is needed.
Is this correct? How have people got there's set for race/track bikes? I'm using SES adjustable rear sets and just about to swap to GP shift. I can't remember what angle my lever is set but i know the pedal feels quite hard. This may just be compared to my agricultural road ER5 though.

you need the dots to line up - one on the shaft and one on the knuckle.

If you cannot set that, you need a custom rod - so underboat96 (or the like) will do a nice ti one for fifteen quid :)

CMSMJ1 wrote:you need the dots to line up - one on the shaft and one on the knuckle.

If you cannot set that, you need a custom rod - so underboat96 (or the like) will do a nice ti one for fifteen quid :)

I didn't even notice dots! I'd it just turn 180 degree for gp shift?

Yup - exactly that mate

CMSMJ1 wrote:Yup - exactly that mate

Think I'm keeping road shift anyway. I'll look for these dots!

As a rule of thumb I stick to a 90 degree angle between the arm and rod if there are no marks/none standard parts

Going back to your original post, I don't think the angle of the gear lever makes it easier or harder to change gear. This adjustment is for personal preference on where you want it to sit relative to your foot.

If you increased the length of the gear lever it would give more leverage and would require less angular movement to change gear.

Timon wrote:As a rule of thumb I stick to a 90 degree angle between the arm and rod if there are no marks/none standard parts

CMSMJ1 wrote:you need the dots to line up - one on the shaft and one on the knuckle.

If you cannot set that, you need a custom rod - so underboat96 (or the like) will do a nice ti one for fifteen quid :)

Look about right?

Looks ok to me.

I find a reversed gear lever [from another model] gives a less hard and notchy change.
The adjustment is not as variable as it is to 1 spline, not continuous thread like the original

arsey30 wrote:I find a reversed gear lever [from another model] gives a less hard and notchy change.
The adjustment is not as variable as it is to 1 spline, not continuous thread like the original

I've seen people do that on the RC51 (SP1/2) before, but didn't think about doing it for the NC30/5. If only that worked for GP shift...