Just wondering if anyone has fitted the conversion kit that does away with the vacuum part.?
Does it work as it should?
Thanks, Sean.

yep, it works as it should, but I would only advise it is done on a track bike, there is no need to do it on anything other than a trackbike that is going to spend prolonged periods at wide open throttle.

its a very quick way to trash an engine if the float valves in your carbs aren't 100% there is a potential for fuel to dribble into the bores, past the rings and into the engine oil, there have been occurrence's of this spinning the main bearings and turning the engine into a paper weight.

Why are you wanting to do it? what's the issue?

I don't have any issues with the bike. Just liked the idea of on/off especially when it comes to draining the tank.
If the tap is off then surely the problems outlined will be avoided?

Hmmm no not necessarily, mainly as the taps are old and leak, mine definitely does, I have a dry break connector in mine that disconnect as soon as I come off track.

Take your point about draining the tank though.

+1. I have the fuel tap mod but also a dry break connector that I disconnect when off the track.

Works a treat, but I usually leave the engine cool down some as the disconnect always lets some fuel dribble out. Not too keen on that on anything hot ...

woodsman wrote:I don't have any issues with the bike. Just liked the idea of on/off especially when it comes to draining the tank.
If the tap is off then surely the problems outlined will be avoided?

Draining the tank is easy, just put the tank to on, suck on the vaccum hose to open the diaphram and stick a bolt in the hose or kink it over and clip it with a close peg to keep the vaccum / tap open.

Really not worth it on a road bike.

The nickname is "HRC tap mod" and people see "HRC" and somehow think that its beneficial.

They don't realise that a F3 HRC bike will have open carbs and 160+ main jets, this bigger jetting combined with being at full open throttle can acutally cause a fuel run out situation becuase of the limitaiton of the vaccum diaphram.. on a normal bike its not an issue.

vaccum tap is good.. if you ditch the bike, or it ever falls over or a float fails and your not there the whole tank wont drain out...

Alright thanks lads. Your collective wisdom has convinced me to stick with my vacuum tap.

I'm after a dry break connector for my NC30 race bike ... any recommendations ?
the std fuel tap outlet is 7mm ID

h2o-pro wrote:I'm after a dry break connector for my NC30 race bike ... any recommendations ?
the std fuel tap outlet is 7mm ID

You can get plastic ones from ebay (search for 'dry break'), I tried them but the mechanism didn't stand up well to heavy use, and the o-rings were prone to breaking. I assumed they use fuel safe viton o-rings, they were intended for motorcycle use.

In the end I just used male and female stainless pneumatic hose couplings from the local hose fittings store, worked well.