So Im trying to figure out why Honda has a pull and push cable setup on the NC30. Ive read quite a few of you guys run a single pull cable and let the carb's throttle spring pull it back into place which sounds appealing. Currently I find myself rolling off the throttle with to much force applied and dropping the rev's as a result.

What are the pro's/con's for running a single cable vs the stock setup?

Cheers lads

I run only the one throttle cable on my race bike, and I find the pro's are one less cable to have to remove/reinstall when taking the carbies off the engine, one less cable to get in the way (which isn't a big deal to be honest) and less drag when opening and closing the throttle.
The only con that could possible come up is if the spring happens to break somehow, you wouldn't have the other throttle cable attached to shut things down.

I also run a single cable on the race bike. Throttle is an NSR250 item which is actually a quick action item compared to NC30.

I have found that a little drag in the opener cable from awkward routing or from non-oiling will cause the throttle not to snap shut as smartly as you would expect. I suspect the closer would lessen this.

Same here, I've always used just the opening cable.

My only comment about this is based on a car, I have had a throttle stick open on me before and you will be amazed how ineffective brakes are when they are fighting an engine. Everything goes wrong very quickly and it seems to take forever to get to the ignition switch to shut it all down. Luckily on a bike the kill switch is right there, just remember to hit it (i.e. don't freeze)

There are 4 other return springs on the carb butterfly shafts, a lot would have to go wrong for the throttle to stick open.

Not saying it can't happen...

tigerclaw wrote:My only comment about this is based on a car, I have had a throttle stick open on me before and you will be amazed how ineffective brakes are when they are fighting an engine. Everything goes wrong very quickly and it seems to take forever to get to the ignition switch to shut it all down. Luckily on a bike the kill switch is right there, just remember to hit it (i.e. don't freeze)

Or pull the clutch...........and wait for the bang

It's not impossible for the throttle cable to stick open if badly routed. For the sake of a few grams and a tiny bit of resistance I'd always prefer to have a return cable on the road. On the track, it could be argued you have nice run-off areas and gravel traps, and if you have to whip the clutch in and the engine goes bang, well, it's a track toy and not your transport.

Probably as Marmite a subject as the HRC fuel tap mod....

The only reason Im thinking about doing it is because when I come up to lights quickly or pull a low speed tight right turn I tend to put to much pressure on the grip and roll the throttle forward forcing the throttle past its normal idle and stalling.

Maybe its just just something I need to adapt too and stop being lazy and putting all my weight on my wrists!