Decided to drop the engine for a thorough clean and resto, but im struggling with the bottom engine mount, i have removed the L/H nut, the castle nut and the long bolt that passes through the frame and crankcases but the engine is still tight and has only dropped slightly at the top and front engine mounts, it looks like the piece that the castle nut screws onto and the long bolt passes through screws into the crankcase? i have tried oil, heat and using a 14mm allen key to unscrew but i cant shift it, anyone got any tips or experience of this please?

Hi, it doesn't screw into the engine block but it pushes up against it hard (it gets torqued against the block) the reason for this is to push the engine fully to the left side of the frame to line up the chain drive etc. Unfort what you are doing sounds right, get some penetrating oil or something to try and get it to settle and then put a pipe or something on the allen key so that you have leverage, crank it and hope to %$# that you don't damage anything. Also download the Haynes workshop manual, its a huge help (I think its in the document library if not search the web and youll find it)

Before doing any of that I would bolt the enging back into the frame to relieve any stress on that lower bolt. It will make it loads easier.

And IIRC there IS a lip around the mating surface of the lower mount on the engine that you can shear off if you don't get that adjuster backed out before dropping the motor....

Good call VFRMAN!

Have you had a look at the Honda service manual, its not rocket science to drop the engine but it gives you a step by step on which bolts to remove to make it easiest.

Saved me F"in and blinding in the past.

Just make sure you block it well underneath and I find it safer that the lower one is the last to be removed :-D
The castellated nuts must be loosened or the allen bolt wont move (I made a socket from an old 22mm socket) and then the Allen bolt will realease .... mine was well salted in (so used a socket that I use on domestic radiators that puts the valve inserts in) had to really use some leverage and muscle to crack it.
Engine should swing loose one to bolts removed

Paul

vfrman wrote:Before doing any of that I would bolt the enging back into the frame to relieve any stress on that lower bolt. It will make it loads easier.

I've got a problem getting the lower engine bolt out of my NC35. I've tried all of the above except putting the rest of the mounting bolts back in, so guess I should try this. However I have the bike laying on its side now, so there should be no weight on the bolt. The engine pivots on the bolt so guess it is seized where the bolt goes through the engine?

Any advice appreciated.

You can try and hammer it out. The trick is finding a drift small enough that you are hitting the end of the bolt and not damaging the threads. Also, part of the bolt channel though the engine is exposed. You should be able to see it if the engine is on its side. Spray that area with wd-40 or some othere penetrant.

vfrman wrote:You can try and hammer it out. The trick is finding a drift small enough that you are hitting the end of the bolt and not damaging the threads. Also, part of the bolt channel though the engine is exposed. You should be able to see it if the engine is on its side. Spray that area with wd-40 or some othere penetrant.

Have been trying to hammer the bolt out using a 1/2" extension bar as a drift, but it's not budging a millimeter.

I've been spraying the exposed area of the bolt too.

With the bike in it's side I've filled the frame recess where the bolt is with WD40 and repeated with oil. Both escape which make me think the bolt is seized in the engine as opposed to the frame. I can also move the engine up and down in the frame.

Guess I'll have to keep hammering for days ahead?

Looks that way. You will probably need a new bolt by the time this is over.