Lately I've been doing some work on my NC30 that I've had for a couple of years, and figure she deservers her own thread. I usually ride her in the canyons and haven't taken her to the track yet. The previous owner dynoed her at 52.5rwhp So I'd like to squeeze some more HP out of it and set up the suspension right before I track it.

Here's what it does have. Maybe someone can fill me in on what I'm unsure of.

Newish wiring harness
Penske rear shock (double clicker)
fuel tap mod (HRC)
Rick O GSXR flywheel mod (2008 gsxr1000)
Some forks that the previous owner told me were reworked by Maxon. I'm not sure what they are. They are a lot longer than the stock ones.
My CDI ICU whatever its called seems different than stock. So is my voltage regulator. Not sure what's going on with that but the voltage regulator looks beefy.
I think the exhaust is an RVF400 with a different can. Not sure what I got there either.
Tyga OEM style fg fairings
repaired OEM tail fairings

The whole bike is jacked up quite a bit compared to my bone stock NC30. Forks are 30mm longer from the top of the triple. The rear is a lot taller too but I haven't measured how much. I can flat foot my stock NC30 but this one has me on my toes.

Waiting to be installed;
Rick O triple ZXR400L front forks, apex clip ons, and GSXR calipers (I need some RC30 discs and a zxr400 mud guard too)
either a TSR ti or Yamato twin stack half systems. Decisions decisions


Yesterday I switched out the nasty rear axle with a cleaner one, added Rick O's chain spacer kit and a Dymag 17-5.25 rear. Next I'll move the chain guide over 5mm by drilling and tapping new screw holes and put the speedo back on. I know it's not necessary but it feels like its adding extra friction to the chain where its at. I need to mount the front Dymag wheel too.

I wasn't digging the tires that where on there and that chunck missing from the corner. The low profile front tire is the worst though. These new ones that came with the Dymags have a better profile and I can't wait to try them out. Unless I pick up some other trick wheels, the Dymags will eventually go to my NC35 I'm putting together and I have an RVF400 rear that I'll get refinished and put on the rear.

That's a standard nc30 cdi, aftermarket (or other model reg/rec), and yes looks like an rvf exhaust with unknown muffler on it. The fork lowers will be nc30, the longer stanchions may be off a cbr600 or vtr1000. Posh firm speed limiter de-restrciter too.

Sounds like it has plenty of potential, just needs some final tweaking.

Those forks really are longer than stock then? No wonder it didn't want to turn when I owned it! I had the forks set to around 5 or 6mm above the triples, but if they're 30mm longer than they're supposed to be...wow.

Voltage regulator is from an early R6, don't remember there being anything special about the ignition box though. It does have a posh-firm de-restrictor on it though.

What is the overall length of those forks from the top of the fork cap to the center of the axle?

More than 30mm,, a whopping 58mm! 690mm from top tp center of the axle. My stock ones are 632mm.

I fought the bike all day argh! Nothing went very smooth but at least I know the bike a little better. I put on the Yamato twinstack and removed the swing arm, drilled and tapped all 4 screw holes 5mm over from where they were so I could move the chain guide over. Then put it back together and took it for a test ride. The Yamato isn't as loud and raspy as the one that was on there. I'm digging it.

Now I've confirmed that the fan still isn't turning on so I'll have to get on that. The fan itself works so I'll have to figure out the problem. Maybe it's the temp gauge on the lower rad?

I'm also smelling coolant coming from somewhere. There was a leak I fixed where the hose met the lower radiator but I'm wondering if it's one of those gaskets above the crank case (the ones in between the fitting that hold that chrome tube).

JC120 wrote:Now I've confirmed that the fan still isn't turning on so I'll have to get on that. The fan itself works so I'll have to figure out the problem.

How did you test the fan? It shouldn't come on until the coolant reaches around 100C, which is very near (or in?) the red on the temp gauge.

For what it's worth I don't have the fan fitted to my road nc30, even in hot Aussie weather it doesn't have a problem unless stuck in a traffic jam, and probably cools the standard radiators better at low speeds due to less air restriction.

about 7 or 8 months ago, I took the fan off and hooked it up to a power source to confirm it was running. I sure could get away without a fan in most parts of the country but here in LA I spend a lot of time riding threw heavy traffic and waiting at stop lights.

Wow, and to think all this time I was blaming the slow turn in on the tire profile! Just imagine how it felt with those forks only sticking up a few mm's above the top yoke! I actually rode it on the track like that! No wonder my new NC30 feels like a razor blade in comparison...

I did replace the fan temp switch with a new OEM Honda one before I sold it to Roy, and IIRC, the fan doesn't come on until past halfway on the gauge.

OK, well thats good to know. Since fan switch is probably still good, I wonder what the deal is. The temp gauge was about 3/4 of the way up when I checked to see if the fan went on. I'll go threw the Haynes manual and see what tests I can do.

It must of turned like a slug with those forks up that high. I'm really interested in how it will feel with the ZXR400L forks and a better tire. I've had that front end for too long now just sitting.

Fan switch is shot so I bought one at the local Honda dealership. Good thing they price matched Partzilla.


Also fixed my fairings again. The cracks and seat tab broke where I had fixed it. This time I added some backing. Hopefully it holds.