What is Std Rear wheel BHP of NC29 ?
What sort of rear wheel BHP can be realistically and reliably be had from a NC29 and what parts are needed also at what cost £

It might narrow things down a bit if you set yourself a budget first, then ask how best to spend it to get a power increase. It's easy to spend a lot of money doing this, and I'm sure some of the other forum members will tell you just how much!

Will the bike be for road or track use?

Unless you have some very good friends in the trade, it will be cheaper to buy a bigger bike...

"it will be cheaper to buy a bigger bike..."
and ruin the fun?....nahhhh..

BHP output differers between bikes/owners.
*MY* bike puts out 58bhp at the rear wheel.
*I* have a K&N air filter, Graeme France stainless headers, Carbon can co titanium end can
Normal chain/sprocket set up. i have NOT had my bike tuned for 2years!

things that WILL affect BHP:
slack chain, not oiled/adjusted chains
rear wheel alignment.
worn bearings/cush drives
lag in the throttle.. get it adjusted and oil the cable before a dyno run
dirty air filter, get a new one or clean/re-oil the K&N if fitted.
un-balanced carbs.
fresh change of oil wont do any harm

You're looking at about 55 BHP.

Have a look through the forum for some of the mods that can be done.

It all comes down to how much cash you've got laying around. But remember that it's cheaper and more effective to do handling than power output!

55 Rear wheel BHP on a standard NC29.
We get 71 rear wheel on our tuned race bikes.
Aiming for 75 plus over the winter courtesy of more HRC parts.

55 Rear wheel BHP on a standard NC29.
We get 71 rear wheel on our tuned race bikes.

Out of interest, how much do you reckon you spent to gain the extra 16BHP?

things that WILL affect BHP:
slack chain, not oiled/adjusted chains
rear wheel alignment.
worn bearings/cush drives
lag in the throttle.. get it adjusted and oil the cable before a dyno run
dirty air filter, get a new one or clean/re-oil the K&N if fitted.
un-balanced carbs.
fresh change of oil wont do any harm

Slack/unlubricated chain and worn wheel bearing/cusk drive will marginally reduce BHP at the rear wheel, but I challenge you to notice the difference except on a dyno!
Rear wheel alignment doesn't affect BHP.
Dirty air filter and unbalanced carbs will reduce available BHP at the flywheel, and therefore at the rear wheel.
An unlubricated throttle cable has no effect on BHP. I don't know what you mean by "throttle lag", but if the throttle doesn't open all the way then of course power is reduced.
Fresh oil won't make any difference to power, but will extend the life of your engine of course!

I'm not sure why you felt the need to point any of this out LP; any faults that reduce engine performance will affect available power, and there are many more that you could have included but didn't. BHP is the engine power needed to overcome a braking force applied either at the flywheel or at the roadwheel(s) so strictly speaking even a worn chain doesn't affect BHP, it merely adds a small extra braking force to the roadwheel. It's more useful to talk about BHP measured at the flywheel because this removes transmission variables from the equation (worn gearbox, slipping clutch, worn chain etc) but as long as you're measuring any improvements from a known baseline, it doesn't really matter.

Sorry to hijack the post, but I'm feeling particularly pedantic today!

The question was out of curiousity
Bike will be used on road and track through the winter(also own a 998s with a 1038cc 150bhp@ 9800 rear wheel with 88Ft/lbs torque at 7500, which is at present being rebuilt to a 1078cc)
The NC29 was bought for my GF, but she lost interest in it about 2 years ago , so I decided to put it back on the road and have found it good fun but lacks a little top speed, but in theory it should reach 140mph but wont pull to redline in 6th gets to 12.5-13K and stops which is 125-130ish but would like to see if I can get it to pull to redline in 6th

wont pull to redline in 6th gets to 12.5-13K and stops which is 125-130ish but would like to see if I can get it to pull to redline in 6th

Cheapest way to hit redline in 6th? Change the sprocket ratio!

alexibrow wrote:

wont pull to redline in 6th gets to 12.5-13K and stops which is 125-130ish but would like to see if I can get it to pull to redline in 6th

Cheapest way to hit redline in 6th? Change the sprocket ratio!

Yes tried that bought 14t front sprocket