a quick guide for an NC30/NC35 cable-to-hydraulic clutch conversion.

parts you will need:-
NC21 front sprocket cover/chain gaurd
NC21 clutch push-rod or a VFR750 clutch push-rod
honda clutch slave cylinder
hydraulic clutch line
14mm clutch master cylinder

the NC21 sprocket cover/chain gaurd will foul the frame if you try to fit/remove it from the motor when the motor is mounted in the frame so you need to remove a little from the right hand side
of the gaurd.
baiscally - cut off the gear pattern indicator.

before


after


note the thinner band of material on the right hand side

fitted



one of the lower bolt housings needs approx 5mm cut off - to allow all 4 mounting points to sit flush to the motor.



NOTE: some of the mounting bolts may need to be longer/shorter

that is all the alterations to the cover done.
at this point, if your gaurd is in need of a respray - now is a good time to do so.

the slave cylinder is a simple beast and can be stripped in about one minuite
remove the banjo bolt and bleed nipple.


hit the slave cylinder of the palm of your hand (with the piston facing down),
the piston is sprung so should come out far enough for you to pull it free of the housing by hand


give the housing and piston a good clean,
and check that the rubber seal on the piston is not damaged before re-assembly.
personally i would replace the banjo bolt and bleed nipple.


now the rod:-



the top one is a vfr750 rod cut down to 339mm
(note: i would recomend that you cut the rod at the slave cylinder side ie. the end that sticks out of the motor to avoid damaging any oil seals with a stray saw mark)

the lower - for reference is a standard nc30 rod - 323mm

an NC21 rod would not need alterd and would be the prefered option, but they are quite difficult to come buy.

all the rods are 8mm in Diameter, although the NC30 rod is lighter as it has an alloy centre with steel tips - rather than the 750 rod that is all steel.


the master cylinder i used is a 1998 vtr 1000 firestorm item


my clutch line is a goodgidge nc21 item


you should route the clutch line the same way the original cable was routed.


THIS CONVERSION REMOVES THE SPEEDO DRIVE AND THEREFORE IS BEST COUPLED WITH AN AFTERMARKET SPEEDO/DASH (KOSO, ACEWELL, TECHTRONICS ECT) OR FITTED TO TRACK/RACE BIKES.

Benefits?

I take it this means not running your speedo from your front sprocket? Or am I being thick?

a lighter action, no need to adjust it, kudos.

my reasons for the conversion are the lighter action as i smashed my left arm and hand in a crash and they get tired pulling the cable operated clutch.
also kudos, as i am building an rc45 race rep that i want to be as visually correct as possable.

bikemonkey wrote:I take it this means not running your speedo from your front sprocket? Or am I being thick?

yes, sorry - i will add that now as i for got to mention that.

Anyone have a photo of one of these with a cut down cover? Or like you would have on a race bike.
Thanks

What's the length of braided lien needed for this?

benny wrote:What's the length of braided lien needed for this?

Same length as the one supplied for the NC21, im sure if you look up that part one of the makers will list the length

Neosophist wrote:

benny wrote:What's the length of braided lien needed for this?

Same length as the one supplied for the NC21, im sure if you look up that part one of the makers will list the length

My NC21 hose arrived from venhill today and it has the normal straight banjo on one end but then a straight (ie no banjo just screw straight in) on the other. Is this right?

I used a vtr1000 SP1 master cylinder and slave and then got a goodridge hose for the SP1.