Right, I was going to wait until I get my car back from the welders so I'm not vehicle-less, but after a trip to the welders earlier, my beloved classic mini has no floors, missing sections of rear quarter, rust everywhere and more delights. On top of this I've realised I'll just have to take it to the painter across the yard and get it painted too, it also as other problems to sort before it's MOT worthy.

So, seeing as it's pissing it down lately, it seems like a good time to organise the garage and just have a crack at this engine swap.

I have: an NC30, engine fitted has no 3rd gear, god knows why. Spare NC30 engine from Graeme France.

Tools: Basic socket set, castellated nut for clutch (but not swingarm, will have to buy), basic hammers, screwdrivers, 2 axel stands + hydraulic car jack.

I was also going to wait until I have £600 for a nice Tyga system, but it'll be a long time before I have that kind of spare money as all my money goes on the mini at the moment. I also want an S1000RR shock which I'll probably do at the same time as the exhaust instead of doing the engine swap at the same time.

I'm rambling.

What's the basic and easiest procedure to swap engines? Do I *have* to remove swingarm, rear shock etc?

Also the new engine apparently has no generator or something, so I'll need to pop the genny cover off and remove fly wheel? I've got a flywheel (I think) and big bolt that Graeme left me and briefly described about screwing it in, tapping something with a hammer - who knows.

I've not done a job this big before, just a clutch change and exhaust swap etc, but I'm very methodical, logical and I know when to take 5 mins off for a brew. Despite not drinking hot beverages.

Oh and I'm planning to do a valve clearance check today or tomorrow as I know it's easier with engine out the bike, anything else worth doing with the engine out? I was thinking plugs too as they're a fucker to get to.

Will probably do the valve clearances, see if I need shims ordering, then order: new plugs, new air filter, oil, shims if needed and I'll check my carb jets and see if I need different ones, carbs could do with a clean as it struggles to start time to time and has to be bumped.

Get the Service manual off the docs page. follow that. Easy as falling off a log!

You do not need to remove swinger etc

Rads, carbs, thermostat, gear linkages and wiring plugs.

Spray the bolts and whatnot with WD or something to free them up - the ballache is the long allen headed bar under the back.

You'll need a 14mm allen key too I reckon

I've got various allen keys but fuck me, 14mm, that's a big 'un. Where abouts is that and what's it for, an engine mount?

I reckon if I decide to do this soon it'll be a staged process, I'll probably attempt valve clearances on the new motor today.

What's the best method of getting the old motor out the frame and the new motor in? I've got no willing assistants (my mates won't get oil under their nails) and just a hydraulic jack + pair of axel stands.

Not difficult really if your take your time.

Spray all the engine mounting bolts with some releasing fluid at least a day before you remove it (plus gas is good)

I get some big pieces of carboard to put the bolts i remove into (bodge a hole in them and put the bolt in) easy to keep track of what goes where.. can also write notes on the cardboard about which way the bolts went together)

Basic guide.

Remove all plastics / tank and then exhaust(rear unit and front pipes).
Drain the coolant. (oil is not necessary)
Remove the rads
Disconnect all the wiring loom plugs, throttle cables / choke cable. Slacken the chain off so you can unhook it from the front sprocket (after removing sprocket cover)
Support the engine.. I use a trolly jack and a block of wood.
Remove the engine mounting bolts and slowly lower the engine, checking for caught wiriing loom parts / cables / hoses.

When I get the engine low, i've lifted the frame up and over the engine to make things easier. The engine isn't super heavy (60kg) but it's easier to move the frame out the way.. back brake on and 'wheelie it' up and out the way.

Before you put the new engine in check the valve clearances and do the plugs. Do any painting you want to do to it and fiddly jobs.

Refitting is a reversal as made famous by the haynes. I usually get the engine in place on a block and trolly jack and then get the bike near and lift the frame over it... of course it helps if you can get someone to push the trolley jack aroud while you have the frame up so you can just drop it down over the engine then jack it up.

For the old enigne, if you want to be removing the front sprocket it's best to do it while the engien is in the frame, it can be a pita to get off once it's out the frame.

The allen key bit....

Use a jap 14mm/M8 bolt, lock 2x 13mm nuts off and use a 13mm socket, you may need to grind the flange off the 14mm bolt head, noce free tool to be had there

How are you people balancing an engine, on a block of wood, on a trolley jack!? My trolley jack's contact area is the size of half an iPhone.

I'll order some plus gas, plugs and you're right, I'll do some engine painting first.

Rick: That seems a ballache and I have no grinder.

When are you thinking of doing it? If you can let me know and it is not pissng down I could take a razz down and give you a hand for a couple hours

Ah that's awfully kind of you, but like I said I'll probably do it over a weekend so I can do lots of cleaning in between, as well as do bits to the carbs etc!

I think I'll make a game plan and if I get stuck I will definitely give you a bell so you can come advise me!

Cheers :)

no worries mate - I'm probably 45 mins away at most if you are stuck, I have the tools too..so if you want to borrow the 14mm allen key you can.

I replaced my motor last weekend..so it is fresh in my mind!

I can also pop over and lend a pair of hands, if you need them. Im in Notts too...