The blade you have the master from will have 30/32+34mm pistons in the brake calipers, most probably. To match that and get it all working really well, you should get similar calipers. This means the gold nissins off a 929,954,SP1/2 or 600RR3/4, which have variously 30/32 + 34mm piston pairs. I am surprised you are getting any performance to speak of with the massively oversized master cylinder you're running now. My guess is very very short travel, little power, and works like an on/off switch.
The firestorm calipers are the same as RVF or early 92-7 blade calipers, so all these will fit straight on, but have 27+30mm piston pairs so still won't match your master, though they'll be closer. The later nissins have bigger 30/32 + 34mm teflon coated aluminium pistons, and therefore the castings are physically bigger. Because bigger, you have to remove a small amount of the top caliper bolt mount. It isn't much at all, not enough to worry about strength in any way. You can do it with a dremel or small round or half-round file. Because the pistons are ally, they keep better against corrosion and are significantly lighter.
EBC pro-lite discs are shit IMLE. They rust at a whiff of rain and don't work when cold or wet. If you're racing maybe they're in their element though.
The fork bottoms should go straight on to your fork internals, they definitely do on a CB-1 so don't see why not.
Have you considered a whole CBR900 front end? Wheel, discs, switches etc. should swap over. Just a thought, better brakes, but also better springy bits and light as the tubes are machined not cast. I was going to go the way you're planning and did that instead in the end, never looked back.
Morti,
Thanks for all the advice. The biggest issues with changing to a Fireblade front end is firstly trying to get one here in Aus and then actually being able to afford it. I've been looking for one for a fair while with no success. I can certainly a complete front end overseas, but the freight almost triples the cost. I do like the sound of the lighter weight. There are a couple of fork bottoms, but the seller might have the year wrong, on ebay US ATM, but I haven't heard back from the seller.
I have the later model cartridge forks in my NC29 and they have been highly modified for racing, springs and valving, which is why I am just chasing the fork bottoms. No-one seems to want to sell me a pair from a set of damaged forks without the rest of the forks and therefore the highly prohibitive freight costs here. My suspension guy is now quite keen to put the compression in one leg and rebound in the other, so that is the job for next summer (we race in our 'winter' here as the day temps are about 25-30 and the nights down to 5 or 6 but it doesn't rain, we get the monsoon in summer and it pisses down for days on end)
I do like the sound of the later calipers and can get them pretty cheaply, but I do have a set of RVF calipers in the shed in really good nick, that came in a job lot of parts, hence the desire to use them. I also like the sounf of the lighter weight.
The brakes work reallly well actually. Way better then the original setup, even when I had a fully recoed master cylinder and brand new pistons and seals in the front calipers with braided lines. They aren't like and on/off switch but have lots of feel and the lever travel at the end of the lever is about 30mm, so pretty good. The PF brake pads I have are designed to have a light initial bite and then more and more as you brake which seems to suit my style well. The EBC prolites are fantastic, if a little bit heavy. I used this setup with standard discs and it was very good, but with the prolites it is even better and yes they do rust quickly, but as my bike only gets about 1 outing a month at a race track and almost never in the rain this isn't an issue. The master cylinder upgrade seems to be fairly common for NC29 racers here without the caliper upgrade.
Thnaks again for the advice, I've just got to be able to get the bits I need.
Matt