Hi guys,

Need a little bit of advice on the jetting setup on my NC30. Just did a trackday at silverstone on monday all good apart from my bike seemed a bit lacking in from midrange to the top end coming down hanger straight. Upon investigating the problem I have found that the rubber flap is missing so allowing water (there was lots of it!) to get into the airbox! Done a carb strip down to check for water damage and found the following jet settings:

FRONT carbs:
Main jet- 120
Pilot jet- 40 seemed to be fully wound in
No washer on the needle and slider drilled to 2.5mm
All emulsion tubes and float heights fine.

REAR carbs:
Main jet- 122
Pilot jet- 40 also seemed to be fully in
No washer on the needle and slider drilled to 2.5mm
All emulsion tubes and float heights fine.


I'm running an aftermarket exhaust with baffle fitted and air filter, any ideas of things I could try before I go to the dyno shop?

Cheers,

Ryan.

Id start with putting the rubber flap back in, its know to cause issues when the speed gets up.

Std pilot jets are 35 (i think), cant see why you would have a 40 pilot jet when still using a filter, is the motor stock or tuned?

Are the needles std?

yeah that was my first thought, hard to get one though duct tape may have to suffice! Its not a stock filter but the engine has a few things done to it, no velocity stacks, ignitech CDI (not sure of map), total loss and timing gears out but doubt they have much to do with it. Will the pilot jets need to be adjusted to the right amount of turns? Needles look pretty standard ill try add a pic.

Here's a pick of the slider and needle out of No1 carb

Do you mean the carbs have no velocity stack? If that's the case I'd suggest getting some stock velocity stacks and fitting them to the carbs, they do not like the induction system being played around with, general concencus is do a full Hrc set up or run them with all the stock induction parts and alter the needles mains and pilot screw.

I think your pilots need to be 35 as standard and pilot screw 2.25 from memory, but check in cammo's carb guide, your mains I think will be ok but they re all a bit different and unique

Good luck

Editted for grammer as my Iphone and auto correct think they are smart, FPOS

Yeah they have been removed at some point. I have noticed a split though in No1 needle slider rubber so need a new one, let me know if you know anyone with a spare! Will any such changes made to the carbs effect the way the CDI works? I think a dyno run first then go from there.. Found the rubber flap on ebay is it the right one to stop water and crap getting into the airbox?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-NC30-VF ... 838wt_1189

If you have no stacks at all (we need pics) then you are going to fight and lose with setting this up.

What is the filter/airbox setup?

think it just directs the air...

I'll post a pic up tomorrow of the carb inlets, there are none at all thought something was missing when I took the airbox off as my RVF has them! Its got a standard airbox setup with the foam removed from the snorkel but with an aftermarket air filter. I've purchased the flap to cover the gap underneath the snorkel inlet as it sucked up a load of water and crap off the front wheel when I tracked it. Sounds like it's worth me getting some velocity stacks on there, any recommendations as to what works well?

Standard works lovely IMO. I had open RVF carbs on my road bike but totally standard and sorted setup (apart from HRC tray and so no lower flap like you are missing) on my race bike.

Is this a race bike you are sorting ? Or a road bike?