Hi, i need to replace the fork seals on my standard forked 3tj,
i will be fitting an fzr600r motor soon.
Does anyone know how much oil to put in each leg?
Is it worth adding spacers/thicker oil?
I weigh 11st and thers an r6 shock on the rear
Cheers

standard tj non adjustable forks are 509ml oil (10wt) or 80mm from the top of the slider with forks compressed and no springs
a good upgrade would be maxton springs and spacers to suit your weight at about £120 the pair,
although the forks are non-adjustable you can adjust the pre-load by shortening the spacer (or lengthen them which is a bit hard if you've cut them down )
maxton sent me spacers about 10mm to long so i had some play, just ask em there pretty good, i actually ended up about 4mm shorter than they recommended but maxton deal predominantly with race bikes so are a bit on the hard side for road use

ditto the maxton springs i used some 9kg ones and cut down some early r6 spacers til i got the right amount of sag.the r6 forks and the 3tj sp forks are very similar(and both 43mm) if i remember rightly and i did wonder if you could put the 3tj stanchions in the r6 fork legs so you could then use the r6/r1 calipers to get the right fork lenghth as the r6 ones are a fair bit longer than the tj ones,mmm now wheres my tape measure

I was pondering that very question just the other day. Let me know what you come up with.
I reckon it would probably work with the SP stanchions because they're both cartridge forks but the standard RR's would be more suited to FZR1000 bottoms.

Thanks for that guys, some very good ideas there!
I did think of putting r6 forks on as ive got early r1 calipers and wheels lying around.
Anyway ive stripped the forks, but the bottom bolt is turning!
I did notice a star shaped cutout inside the forkleg, perhaps i could get a large allen key in there
anyone know what size?
Or would it be easier to wind a couple of screws into the seal and wind it out?

Use a wooden broom handle, knock it down with a hammer and it should give you enough purchase to turn the nut / bolt from the other side

just for a different angle on this, i use a length of 1/2" bar with the right sized nut welded to the top, 29mm across the flats if i remember correctly



loads of peeps use the broom handle method with good affect
but i cant see how hammering a piece of wood into an ally damper is gonna do it any good at all
horses for courses though, do what works for you

Thanks again, i tried the broomstick method with an air impact but no go.
Perhaps i should have hammered the broomstick in harder, but didnt fancy it.
Ive seen some 3/4 unc nuts n bolts lyin around in work they were 28mm a/f.
Might weld one on some stud bar and try that

i used 1/2" square bar only because it makes it easier to get a spanner on the bar to hold it still, then turn the alen bolt at the bottom,
with a round bar you'll need mole grips, which just make the job harder and you may need 3 hands
if the nut's a tad small you could always put a bead of weld round it then grind the bugger to size,
as you can see from the pic, i used 2 before i got it right (and 1 on the other end of the bar so that's 3 ) but once you've got it made, that's it, no more beating up the damper rod with a broom and hammer

Is this a nut or a bolt ???