What are the pros and cons of running total loss on my track bike?

What do i need to remove ( sorry if this sounds abit daft but i have no idea).

The bike is going to be running full mcron , hrc spec carbs , quitening gears removed so is it worth going total loss?

Yes - total loss is worth it, IMO.

The biggest performance difference I made to my old race bike.

Remove the generator and stator parts and seal the gap. Remove the reg rec and associated wiring.

I fitted an optimate lead and used a larger battery, piggybacked, to start the bike. I also plugged it in between sessions/races as I was always paranoid about it running out. It never ran out!

Made the bike feel faster, revved and responded better.

If you are getting a serious trackbike - do it. It works.

CMSMJ1 wrote:Yes - total loss is worth it, IMO.

The biggest performance difference I made to my old race bike.

Remove the generator and stator parts and seal the gap. Remove the reg rec and associated wiring.

Made the bike feel faster, revved and responded better.

If you are getting a serious trackbike - do it. It works.

Ill 2nd that reply and a good battery lasts all day no problem. .

kevprojex wrote:

CMSMJ1 wrote:Yes - total loss is worth it, IMO.

The biggest performance difference I made to my old race bike.

Remove the generator and stator parts and seal the gap. Remove the reg rec and associated wiring.

Made the bike feel faster, revved and responded better.

If you are getting a serious trackbike - do it. It works.

Ill 2nd that reply and a good battery lasts all day no problem. .

So basicly i will just have the on off switch on the right hand clip on , a battery and thats it.

Yeah that's it, your have to alter your wiring slightly if you wanna by pass the ignition. Have a read through the HRC manual there's a few other track related bits and pieces you can do to it.

Drunkn Munky wrote:Yeah that's it, your have to alter your wiring slightly if you wanna by pass the ignition. Have a read through the HRC manual there's a few other track related boys and pieces you can do to it.

I'd like to keep the ignition barrel/key if i can

Unless you are going to disconnect the battery after each track day or connect the battery to a charger until the next track day, you will need a main/ignition switch to disconnect power to any instruments eg temp gauge.

magg wrote:Unless you are going to disconnect the battery after each track day or connect the battery to a charger until the next track day, you will need a main/ignition switch to disconnect power to any instruments eg temp gauge.

not if you alter the wiring to work off the kill switch

I find it really hard to get off the line without the fly wheel. It does rev up a lot faster.

I'm thinking about getting the fly wheel machined down to half its weight.

Has anyone had problems with there starts before with total loss?

Has anyone tried getting the fly wheel machined?

steve92 wrote:Has anyone had problems with there starts before with total loss?

Mine are just as bad- total loss or genny <facepalm>

Think it might be the rider.....